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Spasm

Old Contemptible
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Everything posted by Spasm

  1. Spasm

    M42 Helmet

    Some good questions that I honestly don't really have an answer to and would be happy to discuss to get clear in my own mind. I think forgers are artists in a way, particularly forgers of paintings. The techniques take a lot of learning which requires a lot of interest or, I suppose, incentive in some way. Perhaps that incentive could be greed. I'm in no way leading the market (so to speak) in restoring relics and/or ageing replicas. There are some very very expensive replica helmets out there (Fallschirmjager helmets for over £500 for instance). Application of a good technique in painting and ageing would make them look and feel like the real deal. Add and age some good quality decals and application of the correct type of paint could get these helmets onto the shelves of some collectors no doubt. With the prices that we're seeing for high end SS and Paratrooper helmets I've no doubt there's helmets coming off of production lines somewhere. I'm never going to get into the high end reproductions, nor am I going to present a restored helmet for anything other than what it is. All of the decals on mine are hand painted so wouldn't fool anyone with any knowledge at all. Mots of my restored helmets have plenty of filler but admittedly not easily seen. All of my helmets are also signed. By the way, all artwork is copyrighted with the artist unless that copyright is signed away. However, one of my helmets (without themed artwork all over it) in another person's hands? The removal of the signature and replacement of the painted decal would be pretty simple. And, as we all know, a lot of militaria sales are made without an in depth knowledge of the subject, are done off the cuff and forged helmets do pull people's trousers down regularly. Particularly young and/or inexperienced collectors. I attended a show a few months ago and saw a young guy try to sell his helmet to a dealer. The dealer saw that it was a copy straight off and told the young guy that he'd buy it as a replica. The youngster wasn't happy as he'd paid many times what the dealer was offering. I did give it the once over and it was clearly a copy, quite a bad one in fact. I felt pretty bad for him having been there myself on several items, as you all know. I don't collect much stuff now due to this. I do like doing these helmets but with relics now getting expensive, they are pretty difficult to display (unless you have a war room) and me probably moving into some other form of artwork there's not going to be that many (without themed artwork) to catch anyone. I really hope so.
  2. Spasm

    M42 Helmet

    Tried a new technique that came out pretty well. Originally was a LOT worse condition than the one below. It came as the rubbish one in a batch of relics that I bought together. I had to rebuild all of the raw edges (which took absolutely ages - days in fact) so it was my trial and error helmet. It also has a batch and maker's stamp now (all correct as I've checked them in the batch numbers book). I'll add a liner and chinstrap at some point, age them and probably keep on the shelf as a display next to an example relic. It looks pretty good in the hand as the camo coat looks like it's worn and peeled off of the grey base paint (which is what I did), through which is peeping rusty steel. I still need to think through how to make it even better but I'm getting there.
  3. Spasm

    British Sniper Plate

    Well, still got to check out the barbed wire, add a paw and signature but sort of about there I think. A bit more impressionistic which I may want to get back into in a few weeks....
  4. Spasm

    British Sniper Plate

    I'll have to go have a look now. By the way, just a thought.....why is it that we see, in our mind's eye, WW1 pictures as black and white, while we see Napoleonic pictures in colour. Is it because there's no photos even though there's plenty of photos of the troops from the Crimea. And another thing, why is it that we (or is it just me) are happy to see, in pictures, Allies facing from left to right and Germans facing from right to left? I'm doing some research to complete a WW1 sniper picture. Looking up photos of rifles for reference they seem to be not quite correct if they are facing from left to right and I feel that the painting would 'feel' better if the sniper was aiming/firing towards the left side of the picture. Is it due to what we're used to as the direction of the war? Do you Gents in Germany feel the same?
  5. I had a bit of a walk into town today with the intention of having a look round an exhibition about Bristol's people during WW1. As i arrived a red carpet was being rolled outside the main entrance, over which I naturally walked asking the workmen how they knew I was coming. I was promptly ejected from the foyer being told that the museum was closed due to the President of Singapore arriving at any time. I was then swept up by the Police doing a shoulder to shoulder search along the Quay front and ushered into the upper floors of the museum. They obviously didn't know who I was either (phew). So i was stuck looking round the stuff about Slavery and how Bristol grew from an ant farm into the centre of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's greatest achievements. Civil Engineers all get a bit big for their boots I think especially seeing as he was 4 feet 6 inches tall including his top hat. Any old end up, I came across this in a case and thought some of you may be interested. I have no idea what or age as i couldn't be bothered to try to read another minuscule info sheet in a trendily moody and very dark museum. I expect I'll go back soon to see the WW1 stuff and I suppose i could walk back upstairs to check the details.
  6. Paul Yes, a nice commendation. Thanks for finding it. I'll let Steve know. Cheers
  7. Spasm

    British Sniper Plate

    A bit closer but still a long way
  8. Spasm

    ARP

    What a great thing. Of course it's art, both musically and aesthetically. I assume it has a sound all of it's own.
  9. Spasm

    ARP

    A few ARP bits and bobs that came together
  10. Spasm

    British Sniper Plate

    Tony - yep, Royal Irish Rifles, first day of the Somme Kris - a good blank canvas, gonna be hard painting it with that strut still bolted on. Difficult to display as well, unless you've got your own trench system like Chris.
  11. Spasm

    British Sniper Plate

    Thanks Kris... I think that's about it, was going to add some medals but it got a bit crowded. So, get me crayons out and fill in the colours
  12. Might be some tie in with the Rift Valley Railway and the Rift Valley Police. Note the coins used in the region with the same stance lion.
  13. Spasm

    Freikorps Lumsden ?

    What about a GMIC "Pals Battalion"? Jock could be the PR dept.
  14. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Almost done (you'll be glad to hear). Add some lettering trying to get the style correct for the age. Make sure you've centred the writing on the helmet or it just makes the whole thing look off. The lettering will draw the eye first so it has to look right. You can spend hours and hours on lettering as it's quite difficult. Have a look on t'tinternet at differing fonts to help. Put your signature on the underside of the rim, with a date, get another final coat of lacquer on and we're all done. Phew. Onto the next one - an ARP with St Paul's aglow. I've got a few bits that go together with this one. A gas mask and bag, a wooden warning rattle thing, an ARP precautions handbook, a full tin of Anti gas No2 Ointment, an ARP whistle on a lanyard, ARP badge and tunic buttons - all from the same person, The helmet is scratched H Hall under the rim. Thank you. Over.
  15. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Tony - what would I do if I ran out? Frank - Robin - thank you very much. Glad you like the helmet. I still think it's better in the hand than in the pictures. I must try to figure that out, probably need to make a light box or use the 'big' camera. So, continuing to completion of our Dunkirk one. Paint on a few badges and flags representing the 'little ships' and a veteran's badge. Then the medal Don't be tempted into putting the colours on, just use white - as in airbrushing bonnets, motorcycle tanks etc. - you need to cover the base colour and paint on the details. Medal ribbons are pretty difficult but I paint on weenie stripes to represent the silk of the ribbon. Easy to then colour and shade to make it look like a ribbon. The medal is built up using yellow ochre as a wash and then darkening down into the details. The Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Yellow Ochre and Black can be mixed and used as washes to make any 'bronze'. Silver medals are much more difficult but give a wash of Burnt Umber before getting into the details with Black washes works quite well.
  16. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Robin - all in all it takes about a week including the restoration and all the split thumbs from the sanding. Lots of music and a pleasant way to pass the time while thinking about the next project. Now, I've got a side of a WD petrol/water can, a couple of WW2 German Ammo boxes, a British WW1 sniper plate, half a dozen relic German helmets, half a dozen WW1 British helmets, quite a few WW1 and WW2 British water bottles and I still haven't got those bits of Afghan Apaches from work yet - must have a chat with those REME guys again. I'm short of WW1 German helmets, anyone have any relics they want to part with?
  17. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Tighten up the newspapers and give them a wash or six and some shadows Move onto the other side and do as above to get another couple of pictures on. Then onto the back and paint directly over the brown base for another picture. All painting by numbers and saving with a coat of lacquer and then applying washes to sneak up on what you want. I'll save ya'll from the rest of the process as they are all much the same until I get onto the medal, laters.....
  18. Spasm

    Lanciers Rouges

    Cor, I like that quick shade dipping varnish. Probably best shaking it off in the garden rather than in the bathroom though.
  19. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    The edges of the now sharp white base need to be made a bit fuzzy. Use a drop of water and your nicked scourer. This can also be used for any overspray. Wipe clean. Take the newspaper headlines and give it a good dose of pencil on the back - I've a big thick 6B to do this quickly. Lay and tape on over the white and trace with a ballpoint pen. You can see where you've been so you don't forget which bit you've already traced between sips of tea. Make sure the paper doesn't move as you'll need to hold it as you draw around the 'bends' in the helmet. Ta-da a rough copy of the headlines. Position and tape the next piece and trace again. Once all traced then get your brushes and paint out and fill in the outlines. Painting by numbers, time consuming but pretty easy. Don't worry too much about the weenie details as we're going to make this look old and a bit ragged so the details won't be too clear when finished.
  20. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Right, back to the Dunkirk helmet... You've had a good session on Google and have found loads of pictures that will go on the helmet. Obviously you own the rights to all the pictures and have permission to use them...ahem. Get them all to the right scale by mucking around with the settings on your printer and print them all out. You may need several reams of paper and a few dozen ink cartridges to get everything right. Then choose which ones you'd like on the helmet, cut them out and temporarily stick them onto the helmet to get the look you want. Pick something to start with, here I've gone for the newspaper headings. Hold the picture onto the helmet and draw round it with pencil. Take the picture away and stick masking tape around the drawn border. You'll notice that the lines you've drawn don't look straight. This is because you're drawing onto the 3D curves of the helmet, so you'll need to position the masking tape to ensure the corners look square and the edges look straight. This takes a bit of fettling until it all looks ok. Mask off the rest of the helmet. Don't stick the masking tape down too well or it'll be a bugger to get off, you're just looking to stop any overspray onto the rest of the helmet. Use too much masking tape or you'll get overspray. As you've got a lacquered helmet any overspray can be fairly easily removed but it's best not to get any in the first place. Here I'm using some Citadel Skull White, a hobbyist's rattle can spray that is a bit more expensive but it dries really quickly and is meant for grown up kids to paint their Space Marines. So it's easy to use and can be sprayed thinly. You don't need a thick white, just a light coating to give your painting a base to work from. You could always just paint this base with white acrylic brushed on but it takes ages to cover the brown and ends up with brush marks that will show when you're laying washes on top. Pull off the masking tape and hey presto, all ready to get into making it look like an old newspaper.
  21. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    I've consulted the Admin Staff. Her knowledge on cricket bats is absolutely rubbish. She's good on crochet though.
  22. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    I obviously need a new camera or to improve my knowledge on what buttons to press, the helmet is a lot better in the flesh. Thanks Gents, nifty with pots is what I'm trying for. Enjoy the helmet Robin. Here's the antique cricket bat (I've no idea how old it is, does anyone have any knowledge on these?) and the continuing portrait. WC Grace, who was a Doctor and a Surgeon, and one of the greatest English cricket players ever. He achieved the double (1000 runs and 100 wickets in one season) 8 times in his cricket career. He played football for the Wanderers and could throw a cricket ball a distance of 122 yards. He was born here in Bristol which is where he was a GP. His never seemed to get around to invoicing his poorer patients and regularly visited the local workhouses on his rounds. Sounds like a great bloke. Back to the Dunkirk helmet.
  23. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Sorry I haven't been getting on with this. I've been diverted by a couple of other things, this being one of them. Made by Montagu Odd, who hand made cricket bats for one of the greats.... Not really militaristic but it does give an idea of how to build up a portrait
  24. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Impressed or what. Well done Tony. Looks good to me, you'll get used to how the colours interact and how to change the tones to get the final result you want. Not using enough lacquer will not cause anything to bubble up. All I can think of is that the paint was not quite dry before you lacquered, this will seal in the moisture and cause the paint to lift as the water evaporates. Acrylic paint is basically a resin or plastic once dried. It sticks to the lower wet or dry coat by drying around millions of weenie bits that stick up into the new coat. The bubbling has caused these to separate and therefore will now not be as stuck together as they should be. If kept dry and stable there shouldn't be a problem but I wouldn't be surprised if, given time, you loose those sections. However, lacquer is pretty strong so you may never see any problem as the final coats of lacquer will hold the layers in place. Dampness in the air causes the lacquer to go misty, lacquering in the rain causes what looks like white spots (which is really annoying) but doesn't cause any lifting. Putting on thick coats of lacquer can cause 'orange peel' (which needs rubbing down to make smooth). Your lacquering looks good. Don't get too heavy handed with the lacquer, you're not painting a car or bike tank for the glossy finish. You can put on as many coats of lacquer as you want just keep them thin like you have. Nice one. Bloody excellent for a first one, you should've seen my first one
  25. Spasm

    Time for new furniture

    Hmmmm........looking through the site. I suppose he did find a field full of them and ran out of ideas. I liked the bog, but then saw this No way to feed the baby
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