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Gentleman's Military Interest Club


Old Contemptible
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Everything posted by Spasm

  1. Welcome to GMIC. Any chance you can take a few close up photos so the makers marks can be seen clearly. Ta.
  2. M16 Camo

    An original German M16 helmet maker stamped TJ66 - made by C.Thiel & Sohne of Lubeck and size 66. In the crown is the stamped steel rolling mill number R1426 - Stahlwerk Rochling of Volkingen. When I obtained this helmet it was covered in a horrible bituminous paint with cardboard SS runes glued to each side, underneath I found that it had been chrome plated, probably in the 60s or 70s by some bad boy biker. I've removed the bituminous paint, chrome plating and then painted as an aged camouflaged machine gunner's helmet and added a replacement liner and chinstrap aged to match. Turned out quite nice I think.
  3. M16 Camo

    Les, thanks for that. I did try acid (I think it was brick cleaner from a builder's merchants) a long time ago trying to get chrome off of bike bits and pieces without success. In fact, I was left with a bucket full of some pretty nasty gloop (caused some doubts on how to dispose of) and some badly pitted bike bits (I think the acid ate the steel quicker than it ate the chrome). I also tried the electro method with a battery charger on some other stuff (after being advised to go that way) - another failure and another large bucket of gloop and chrome still in place. I found the best method was to go talk to a chrome plating firm with the few bits and bobs I had left. I'm glad it works for you but I don't think I'll be getting many more chrome helmets and the bikes I have left will be stripped down and sold off as bits (no one seems to have any money for whole second hand chops and street fighters any more). As it was a helmet I went for the elbow grease method as it was free, I wouldn't cause an erm... episode with the Admin Staff over using anything in the least harmful (the instructions on the paint stripper was read to me more than once) and I could sort it there and then - well over a few hours. I would be interested in seeing your chrome removal process though as you never know what might come up in the future. Steve
  4. M16 Camo

    Chris - a layer of black bitumen paint applied to stick to the chrome underneath. The black bitumen came right off with paint remover, thinners and acid burnt fingers and wrists. No matter if you wear gloves the fingers split whilst rubbing and splashes always get over the wrists. Takes a while to start burning until there's the jumping about stage ripping the gloves off and running hands under the tap. Then the chrome took mechanical sanding - a drill with attachments to get through the chrome to the nickel layer. Done carefully so as to not wear into the helmet metal itself. Sanded smooth by hand then primed and paint. Really nice helmet that still has the rolling mill stamp so well worth the effort to keep it alive. But a lot of work I must admit. The chroming was probably done in the 70s as it was done on nickel and pretty thick. As it's quite difficult to paint chrome someone had, some years later, applied the bitumen a sponge liner, some string for a chin strap and some hand drawn card SS runes on each side - probably to attend some fancy dress party. Remember these things were pretty cheap in the 70s. I will even admit to having an SS dagger that I found in a market for sale that I then welded to the sissy bar of my bike!!!!!!!!
  5. M16 Camo

    Thanks for that Peter, Have had a quick look (seems like I've seen some of the pictures before) and will have another wander around and maybe give them a nudge
  6. M16 Camo

    Thanks Gents. Lots of elbow grease in that one but, as you say, worth it to bring it back to life. Knock away Chris, looks like you have room now.
  7. Coburg Badge

    Painted flask approx 100mm by 70mm. I've tried to show the etching in the photos.
  8. Coburg Badge

    Struggling Peter, struggling. But we'll get there one day. Thank you and happy whatsits to you too.
  9. One of only two in the whole world and the hiker received a certificate of appreciation and will be happy to maybe see it in a museum one day. Blimey, well done her.
  10. Coburg Badge

    Thanks Mil and welcome to the forum, nice to have you here
  11. I've been searching around some early photography and came across this image on Wikimedia Ambrotypes. It has a French title from the Archives de la photographie 1840-1940. It reads Anonyme Un veteran et sa femme (A veteran and his wife). I'm assuming the medal is a GSM Peninsula (as title refers) but as it is a French picture could it be something else? Such a great picture worth showing - assuming borrowing the picture from Wiki doesn't mean I've got to go hide in an Embassy. Close up
  12. Model 36 helmet

    Russian and looks to be redone with a Leningrad liner (probably during the siege). Pretty rare if it is and worth quite a bit of money. Horrible though I agree.
  13. Paul, yes, South Norwood just the place for old Vets to get a free Gin or two. But taking her indoors along shows some vinegar. The clasps look good but with the straight hanging bar and the obverse detail not looking like Victoria's profile or the reverse of her placing the laurel on Wellington's head. Given the date of the photo it must be though I suppose.
  14. I had no idea that these were stashed in the little City? (it has a Cathedral) of Brecon - Mid Wales. It has the highest concentration I've ever seen of VCs. The local: The actual Flag: And the VCs: The photo'd one is the only one they do not own (replicas in the display, the museum owns the originals):
  15. Jerry, yes, I went to see a friend at the fair. Only a small fair but very friendly with some interesting stuff.. He has convinced me to display (and maybe sell) some of my artwork at the next one. I'll be there on 22nd May. I'll probably pay another visit to the museum to get a second look, well worth a visit just to see the snow capped mountains and feel that Northerly breeze down the valley - brrrrrrrr. By the way, isn't the Union Flag displayed wrongly?
  16. And an original letter written by one of the survivors written the day after the battle:
  17. Train Eagle

    M40 Lufty, a couple of German ammo boxes and a painted repro train eagle - I've tried to make the eagle look like polished wood.
  18. Winter Camo

    I seem to have been doing a few winter camo helmets of late: Well worn Fallschirmjäger Luftwaffe DD An M35 Waffen SS SD And a Fallschirmjäger SS of 500/600 penal battalion
  19. Winter Camo

    Jock - I very much agree with you, None of my helmets would fool anyone for long but they do look very nice on the shelf. There are indeed very talented people out there forging stuff and have been doing so for a very long time. Long enough for the fakes to be pretty old. Remember those very highly priced daggers a few years back that were made in German factories just after the war. Given the prices helmets are going for i would rather spend on a known reproduction rather than risking on a supposed real one as I neither have the knowledge or the money.
  20. I've got 29 of these large format (370mm by 320mm) colour pictures hanging around and have been meaning to scan them in for a while (before they get bunged back up in the loft.) No idea why I got them and have no ideas what they were originally for - prints for a book? signal magazine? Any ideas?
  21. Here's a not so well preserved PAB in silver to Panzer Jager Lehr 130. Dated Jan 1945 presumably due to actions in the Ardennes. I think these guys were mounted in Panzer IV/70 (V) tank hunters - the Jagdpanzer IV. Any ideas on who the signature is?
  22. Winter Camo

    I haven't really been to the forums to look other than a photo showing some overspray next to a supposed gap made by masking tape. I must go and have a closer look.
  23. Winter Camo

    Continuing with the winter camo theme. A resprayed 1/16th scale radio controlled (with engine sound, recoil, exhaust smoke etc) T34/85 medium Russian tank. Jolly hockey sticks what what.....
  24. Winter Camo

    Larry - all the helmets are reproduction. All were straight out of the brand new box a couple of weeks ago with me then trying not to lose too much blood twisting up the wire baskets Jock - technically pretty easy to do with a bit of homework. Particularly SS runes as they are the easiest to reproduce. I believe these 'decals' runes were produced some years ago - like maybe the early 70s. In those days us custom sprayers were using cellulose paints, having to come out of garages full of fumes before we fell over. The paints mixed in thinners pretty well with flakes, metals and candies - just about anything would dissolve. The three or maybe four stencils could have been fairly easily measured and cut. Then basing on a couple of datum lines spraying the base, runes and lacquer could be lined up pretty accurately each and every time. The slightly blurred edges would be achieved by using a stencil that was placed and held with tape rather than a sticky (frisk) stencil. Given the simplicity of the design it wouldn't have needed an airbrush but was probably an old passche as that's what we had then. The overspray seen in the pictures looks like a pretty thick mix which was probably not controlled too well as the faker was producing lots of them with the minimal of masking. Not having checked but I expect any chemical analysis would be a pretty close match. Accuracy would obviously be a lot easier these days with computer cutters sorting out the stencils once the design is done - and that design could be anything you like, cut more accurately than you could achieve by hand. Multi mixing of paint colours including metals and content could also be sorted with some homework. Given that there's very accurate repro Fallschirmjager shells selling for £500 and that I've seen a DAK Fallschirmjager helmet advertised for $25,000 just recently I wouldn't touch any of them.