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Gentleman's Military Interest Club

Spasm

Old Contemptible
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About Spasm

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    OC

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hardest Rock this side of Mars
  • Interests
    Now living in Bristol with a mate.

    Apparently I draw a bit - other people have told me I do, so there.

    Have tunnelled through most parts of the UK and still haven't made it out.

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  1. Martin The newer split pins (1940ish - they may be dated but probably best not to play with them too much to see) are holding the finished colour better than the older helmet. The steel alloy of the later split pins never seem to rust as much as the steel helmet so the paint looks better. Roller buckles are pretty rare. Some were manufactured through the 20s and clip onto the helmet bale/d ring with a steel clip and are sewn on at the other side. These are normally only found on transitional helmets (M16/M17etc), sometimes used on early M35s. All chin straps were basically the same from 1939 on, 13 holes I believe. They started off all alluminium, then most became steel in 1940 with the quality falling away later in the war. Chinstraps broke a lot, due to quality, hanging from webbing and general use so were replaced fairly often. Roller buckles are known on all helmet variants (M35/40 and 42) some sewn onto the bales, some made from Belgian or French Adrian straps. So, not unknown and not something to worry about, just a bit more of a life story for the helmet. Great helmet to keep. I made up the H-RTS230/245, just to see if anyone was actually reading or paying any attention.
  2. Martin Really nice 'piece of history' helmet you have there. Looks to be an early war replaced liner and chinstrap but probably not the drawstring. I'm guessing an ET helmet, liner being marked as 57 would make it an ET64? and shrapnel damage from a H-RTS230/245 given the shape of the dent. Any other feelings Gents? Steve
  3. Spasm

    Little Helmets

    Thanks Martin I expect you'll be back Good grief, I'll get my coat
  4. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Martin, yep, I heard, he he. No need to touch it, it's great as it is. All part of it's long life story. Nice plain greys are getting harder to find, a keeper for the shelf.
  5. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Mike, praise indeed! Thank you. It's honestly not that difficult to do as it's really just tracing and painting by numbers, just very time consuming. I have a few German helmets that need a bit of erm....sprucing up. And, with the risk of being outlawed by the collecting community, I may do a similar thread showing how to bring an M35/40/42 back to life. Thanks again Mike, all praise is very gratefully received.
  6. Ruined, send it to me, I'll give you the best scrap value.
  7. Spasm

    Painting stuff

    Martin Thanks my man. Be careful, ball hammers are good for making dents as well, you'll probably be better off with a flat hammer and dolly once you've got the liner out. He he, best of luck with that. Enjoy your time here, it's a pretty cool forum with decent chaps and chapesses. Steve
  8. Hicks - Highlight the link, then right click, then click on 'search google for...' and it'll take you to the link. Pity I don't understand German. There's another clever thingy that'll translate but I don't have the iphone app. Come to think of it I don't have an iphone either. Yes, seems to be a few memory lapses but still, great to talk to a Leibstandarte veteran, just to hear the loudness of the missing parts.
  9. Martin Bent split pins point to the liner being removed/replaced - that could have been by anybody from original owner to later owner. Brass pins point to pre 1940 or reuse of the originals. I would say that the rough grey green paint has been removed at a later date as some is still evident over the decal rather than being just around the decal. I still really like the helmet, who's to say what happened with the liner. These un-reinforced liner bands split fairly easily so it could have been replaced at any time - and you know what a bugger those split pins are to get in. The liner is debatable but I don't think the exposed decal is. Really depends on what it was sold to you as I suppose, but it's a really good camo helmet with a life story to tell. Cheers, Steve
  10. Spasm

    WW1 Commemorative piece

    Peter, Yes, that's what I said, (well maybe not those exact words). I couldn't stay long because they were busy and I was laughing too much. So I've done the moulds myself. Having bought the materials for doing moulds etc I can see why the costs are so high. The silicon mix comes in 2 brightly coloured gallon buckets (small amounts just aren't worth the price). You need to be Charles Atlas to get the lids off and then try to figure out how to get the thick gloopy stuff out in small portions to mix. Because it's so thick and difficult to measure it tends to get stuck all over the place and it can't easily be wiped up. The casts seem to be coming out ok and the two part mixing of the plastic/resin stuff isn't that bad as it's a bit thinner and easier to handle. Bubbles are an issue and trying to get the casts to look like bronze/brass isn't that easy and seems to depend on luck to get it to come out ok. But I'm getting there. The whole process isn't like DIY or building. If you need something you can climb down the ladder and go off to the shed to get that hammer, knife, saw, box of screws that you forgot. The moulding/casting thing needs to be organised, you need to have everything to hand, everything happens so quickly there's no time to go get something - especially cleaning up stuff- as a large piece of hard plastic shaped like a puddle in the middle of the carpet doesn't please the Admin Staff much. (Although it did have a nice bronze sheen to it). I'm sure the mould wasn't leaking when I poured it. They should be a lot cheaper then. Plain white casts should be in the region of £30-50 each and painted ones about £100-150 each with the bronze ones in between somewhere. The painted ones will be very limited editions as I can't see me staying interested enough to paint many. Steve
  11. Ah, looks to be 1938 helmet then. The liner split pins look to be brass which points to it being pre 1940. There doesn't seem to be a stamp on the leather liner which puts that post 1937 (although it could of course have been replaced). And an un-reinforced aluminium liner band which dates it pre 1938. And the chin strap clearly dated 1940. For info - the aluminium single liner bands were reinforced with two riveted plates in 1938. This was due to the liner snapping by the chinstrap bales when the soldiers carried them on their webbing. The aluminium liner bands were replaced with zinc coated steel ones in 1940. The liner should be stamped on the outside of the righthand side with the manufacturer and year (be careful if you try to have a peek). Those Walhalla chaps will give you a lot more info than I can. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Steve
  12. Spasm

    WW1 Commemorative piece

    Thanks Geezer, it's appreciated
  13. Martin, Looks like you've solved the picture adding and they look pretty good to me. Manufactured by Saxon Emaillerwerke in Lauter. Can you confirm the batch number, is it 3568 or 5568? Does it have a dome stamp (an ink stamp right in the soffit)? Batch 3568 would put it right at the start of the 1938 dome stamps and just as the reinforced aluminium bands start. Batch 5568 would sort of confirm the rough texture green grey paint and a 1940 manufacture date. Looks like the chinstrap is also stamped. Nice helmet.
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