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    Brian Wolfe

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    Posts posted by Brian Wolfe

    1. I think Peter has hit on the reason for double issues, two clerks perhaps from different levels in a regiment both sending on their own list rather than a system where the lists all end up on the same desk for ordering. I think it is a case where anything can happen and usually does in India... twice. ??

      Regards

      Brian

       

       

    2. Thank you for your feedback, it really is appreciated.

      I should have added in the tutorial that taping the metal rod as it is bent around the pipe helps a lot. Nothing too hard just tapping it a little. When I decided to try this I envisioned blow torches and the hammer of Thor but when I mentioned this to a friend of mine who is really good with metal he just laughed at my exaggerated imagination.

      Thanks again fellows.

      Regards

      Brian

       

    3. When it comes to ageing steel I was at a loss and like most of us turned to YouTube. Some methods scared me somewhat. After all who doesn’t like wearing a lab coat, goggles and rubber gloves? On the other hand let’s not risk life and limb over a ring or two. This is where you can come up with some jokes on matrimony if you like.

       

      The method that looked safe involved a two stage process first using vinegar and salt. First I would suggest wearing latex gloves, just in case (especially for the second part), though this seems safe enough to me so few worries. I took any oil off the rings with some mineral spirits. Then soaked the rings in a solution of salt and vinegar in a plastic yogurt dish; the quantity of salt and vinegar is not all that important, but don’t go cheap on the salt. Leave this for 4 to 5 hours.

       

      Then replace the salt and vinegar with salt and hydrogen peroxide. This will start to “boil” but not with any heat. I did this several times over the course of probably 3 to 4 hours. It would take a lot less time had I used a large amount of the solution but that seemed rather wasteful. When it is “cooking” (again not hot) it looks like an evil conglomeration but that it the chemical reaction doing its work. Once this stops you will see what looks like brown moss at the bottom of the clear liquid. This tells you to check your progress and probably repeat the process. Cost-wise I only have a couple of dollars invested.  

       

      Below is a photo of the solution “working”.

       

      I hope, as in all of my tutorials, that this encourages people to try some DIY projects.

       

      Regards

      Brian

       

      evil looking goop.JPG

    4. This shows the rings on the scabbard. You will notice that there is a space between where the ring meets itself but that is common even on original sword scabbards. Many of the original manufacturers, but not all, would braze or weld the two arms together. I chose the easier method and am happy that it is one of the original methods of attachment.

       

      rings on scabbard.JPG

      This shows the sword in the scabbard back in its place in the collection. I think that the aged rings match well enough and I must say with complete lack of modesty I am quite pleased with the outcome.

      A word on ageing steel will follow next.

       

      1796 in the rack.JPG

    5. Now that you have what looks like a large spring turn the pipe on its side and get ready to make rings. If the Lord of the Rings theme music is playing in your head let me know as this may or may not be normal at this point. You can cut these “ribs” with a hack saw but I used an air tool with a very narrow disc cutter as it was faster.

      getting ready to cut.JPG

      actually cutting the rings.JPG

      Now you should have some rings that look like the ones shown below. The darker ones at the top have been aged and we will talk about that later on. At this time you can test the ring opening to see if you can actually put them on the suspension devises. They will probably need to be spread farther apart so do that now. Do not try to make the ends line up on the same plane as you can’t close a metal ring tightly enough simply by squeezing the ends together. You need to line up the ends then twist them toward each other. All metal, except lead for example, has what they call a memory to one degree or another and it will want to return to its former position. By lining the ends up then after the ring is in place twisting the ends toward each other the steel will stay in place. If you have never done this before I think you will be quite surprised as to how well this works.

       

      the rings.JPG

    6. Replacement scabbard rings

       

      It was been said by some that a sword without its proper sword knot is incomplete; I would think that is a matter for some debate. However, no matter your stand on that issue I would put forward the suggestion that a scabbard missing its suspension rings is a nearly useless object, unless you count it as simply a container for the blade. Recently I purchased a 1796 Light Cavalry Trooper’s Sabre with a steel scabbard minus the suspension rings. This didn’t really pose a problem for me as I have made a good number of “jump rings” or suspension rings for jewellery when I was engaged in that pursuit. On the other hand I thought that perhaps it might be more of a daunting project for others therefore this short tutorial.

       

      I must admit to being a bit discouraged at times when I search for “how to” information on YouTube only to find that the presenter is suggesting thousands of dollars in specialized equipment to make something you can purchase for a fraction of the cost. Therefore I have tried to keep the process and techniques well within the talents of the average person, which for the most part would include me.

       

      You will first need to know the size of the ring and the diameter of the steel rod you will be using to make the rings .If you don’t have other examples in your collection you can scale the size from the Internet “Images”. This will be close enough to fool almost anyone’s eye once you have displayed the finished sword scabbard in your collection. In this case the diameter of the steel rod was 3/8” (5mm) with the inside diameter of the ring at 7/8” (22mm); this is important as you will see later on. Take a trip to your local metal dealer and purchase about 2 feet (roughly 80mm) of mild steel. Do not purchase the more expensive “tool steel” as you will never be able to bend it into a ring shape...never.

       

      Below is the scabbard section showing the suspension loops with the missing rings.

       

      ringless scabbard.JPG

      You will now need a vise and a steel pipe the same diameter as the inside of the ring you are about to make. Drill a hole in the pipe so that the metal rod will fit inside of the hole. This is to hold one end of the rod making life a lot easier as you bend the rod. There is no need for a blow torch as the mild steel will bend fairly easily. Bend the rod around the pipe as if you were making a spring. You might as well make several rotations to produce more ring than you presently need as you just never know when you or fellow collector might have need of them.

       

       

      bending rod one.JPG

      bending rod two.JPG

    7. Not that this post is intended for "double issues" but I thought I would take this opportunity to post one of mine. Back a few years ago when I was deeply interested in the medals of India and Pakistan a friend of mine,who resided in the Punjab,would find medal groups I might be interested in and would forward them to me. Many times these arrived in a package all tied together with twine just as he had found them. I would remount them and in this case mounted the extra General Service Medal with the Naga Hills clasp and marked in on the back so that these would all stay together when another collector acquired them from me or my children some time in the future.

      Regards

      Brian

      Indian group.JPG

    8. Oops. In the past when I put together a tutorial I would take all of the photos ahead of time, while this time I was "winging it" as I wrote the piece. At the end of a long day I didn't notice that I had mounted the sword incorrectly.

      The bracket at the grip end of the sword should have been behind the sword's langet to fully show off the bugle crest. The idea is always to show as much of the items as possible while hiding the support. I could also have trimmed the bracket on an angle to hide it even more but there are times when I have to say "enough already".

      Below is a photo of how the mounted sword should have looked.

      Sorry for the error.

      Regards

      Brian

      remounted sword.JPG

    9.  

      I should have mentioned earlier that you need to leave the felt that will cover the top screw on the main bracket without glue until you install the screw. Then glue the felt with a drop of glue on the top of the screw to cover it and protect the specimen.

       

      This is where I should also remind you to read all of the instructions before you start.

       

      Now all that is left is to mount your bayonet, knife, small sword etc. Mine is a Pattern 1895 Mk.II Bugler’s sword which is more the size of a large dagger. Here’s a small tip that you might not think of until it is too late. If you are working over a glass shelf as in this case place a piece of wood or a thin cardboard box (that was what I used) on the  shelf in case you drop a tool such as your hammer onto the glass. No need to explain why. I had also removed the sword display as past experience with renovations has taught that everything will get in the way so move it out before you start work. My next project for this cabinet will be to install LED strip lighting to the top inside. As you can see the room lights do not reach this area of the cabinet very well. I will try to remember to show before and after photos of that project when I get around to doing it.

       

      I hope this encourages you to try some do it yourself projects in the future.

      Regards

      Brian

       

       

       

       

       

       

      mounted sword.JPG

      replaced sword mount.JPG

    10.  

      Before we talk about the bracket that will support the blade we should address a potential danger to the item being displayed. The danger is electrolysis. This is a chemical/electrical reaction between two pieces of metal that are in contact. Plumbing pipes made of copper, when in contact with steel brackets will start to experience corrosion due to this phenomenon and is prevented by using rubber gaskets or sleeves between the two metals.  To prevent this from happening in the case of displaying metal weapons on metal brackets I always line the bracket with felt. I also do this with the wooden gun-rack style sword mounts I use in case there is any chemical reaction between the steel and the clear finish I use on the wood. I always wax my sword blades and scabbards but better safe than sorry when it come to any potential corrosion.

       

      A few drops of super glue will stick the felt to the metal bracket. I use a lot of different CA glues, two part epoxy and super glues as well as the usual wood glue and have found that the Ultra Gel is the easiest to use as it is not too fluid like many CA (Cyanoacrylate) glues. Be careful when using any CA or super glue as most produce a great deal of heat and when in contact with skin will burn. Yes, I have glued my fingers together on occasion, usually I glue things like felt to the side of my hand but I use latex gloves when working with the stronger glues. The most dangerous will actually “smoke” when used on wood as they produce so much heat that the moisture in the wood turns to steam. Burns of this type are extremely severe and the pain is unbelievable. If you do stick something to your fingers don’t try to tear the item off or your fingers apart, skin will rip away from your fingers unbelievably easily. Use a product such as Super Solvent, which is actually acetone to dissolve the glue.

       

      For the final bracket that will hold the blade you will need to cut the bracket still in the package (they come in pairs); just estimate the length you will need. Use a pair of side cutters to score the bracket and then bend the metal back and forth until it breaks off. It will not take too long to break the bracket as it is very soft metal. You want to make a more or less lightning bolt shape. Line this with the felt as well.

       

      Now you are ready to mount the specimen.

       

      Super glue.JPG

      blade bracket.JPG

    11.  

      The next step is to flatten out the bracket but not the ends where the screw holes are located. I find that gripping the bracket with the locking pliers just ahead of there “tabs” will keep them in line as you straighten out the rest of the bracket. This is important otherwise the two ends with the screw holes will not be on the same plane making installation difficult if not impossible.

       

      Next I placed the straightened out bracket on the piece of wood that in this case was ¾ of an inch thick which was exactly the same width as the edged weapon’s hand guard where it would be supported. Because you are working by hand and not with machine shop precision tools you will find that the bend, once made will be wider than the ¾ inches needed (in this case) but do not worry as I have found that this works to your advantage. I placed a second piece of wood over the straightened bracket and clamped this together as it is impossible to hold the bracket down while trying to bend it as 90° which is what you will need. This produces your first bracket of the two you will need.

      The photo shows the straightened bracket protruding from between the two pieces of wood. Use the hammer to lightly tap the exposed bracket downward.

       

      I have shown the shape of the finished bent bracket next to the original resting on the top surface of the anvil so you can better understand what I am saying.

       

       

      two blocks of wood.JPG

      bracket on anvil.JPG

    12.  

      Once you have a few bayonets, daggers, short swords etc. You will most likely want to display them, not just for yourself but so you can bore your wife’s friends out of their little minds. Just how to get these treasures (and they are treasures) up on the wall becomes a problem. I have never liked hanging such items from hooks but will admit that I have done so and at times that seemed to be the best, if not only, answer to the problem. I have always liked the way museums displayed their edged weapons and years ago came up with my own solution. For my heaver swords that are in cabinets I have made what would best be described as “gun rack-style” mounts. However the following is a tutorial on how I mount edged weapons to a flat surface, such as a wall or in this case the inside of the side of a cabinet.

       

      I will post this in stages as the forum will not allow photos within the text so it will be best if I make several posts with the photos at the end of each step.

       

      You will need to purchase café rod brackets which can be found at just about any hardware store. These are made of soft steel with brass plating and are very easy to bend, however once screwed to the wall they become quite ridged and will hold quite a bit of weight. I would hesitate to display a full size sword on these though I have never tried. The tools you will need are minimal, a pair of locking pliers or in this case Vice-grips; the regular type, and a pair of needle-nose pliers would also be helpful. Any hard surface, NOT the kitchen counter top! I used my home-made anvil made from an old piece of rail road track. Now there was a project that I must say I almost regretted starting. But in the end, using an angle grinder and a blow-torch to make the bolt holes, I have a serviceable anvil. A hammer of any type and a couple of pieces of wood; I used pine even though in my shop hardwood is more common. The wood needs to be the thickness of the area near the weapon’s grip where you will support it on the wall. This is so that the piece you are making will fit the item you are mounting with the least bit of “playing around”.

       

       

       

      anvil photo.JPG

      rod bracket.JPG

    13. It looks authentic to my eyes. The naming looks correct, as to the Regiment, Lincolnshire would seem correct but there are members who would know more about that. Here in Canada the price would range around the $100. mark with the rank of Lance Corp being more desirable than a Private soldier. My price estimate is based on what I ask and get from these at the local shows where I sell medals. Mine are all with ribbons but these are cheap enough and easily purchased through eBay.

      I hope this helps.

      Regards

      Brian

       

    14. Hello Everyone,

      I was fortunate to have acquired three Imperial German swords lately, one made for use by the Ottoman Empire. These I will post at a later date. I was hoping that the membership could help me with the translation on one of the sword blades. I can figure out the easy part which states it was to a member of the Artillery Regiment No.9 but the rest is a mystery to me.

      Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

      Regards

      Brian

       

      Imperial German sword.JPG

    15. Very nice grouping of sawbacked bayonets terrylee.

      Here is a photo of one of the rarest British swords and one that I recently acquired for my collection. This is a Pattern 1816 Baker Rifleman's Sword that is usually misidentified as a Pioneer or Artillery Privates hanger. I will go into the documentation supporting this identification in "Lets Talk British Swords" later when time permits. 

      These were issued before the Baker Rifle was "fitted" for the familiar sword bayonet and when the Baker used with the then familiar socket bayonet,( I have two such Bakers in my collection), and it was decided that the rifleman needed a sidearm since a socket bayonet is of limited use when not attached to the firearm..

      Regards

      Brian

       

      1816 baker rifle sword.JPG

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