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  1. Brian, Thanks for initiating this discussion. For me, it’s a combination of the thrill of the chase, the history behind the item, and the aesthetics, although this latter factor may seem a bit strange to some. To illustrate this, the very first thing I collected as a kid in the 1950’s was a Belgian WW1 medal, for service in 1914-18, which is bell shaped, with a very striking profile of a very dignified soldier, wearing an Adrian helmet which bears a laurel wreath. It was the image that attracted me more than anything else. I then became a bit of a magpie, collecting just about anything I could afford e.g. badges, bayonets, helmets, patches, before settling on British army cap badges. This was driven as much by the look of them as anything else, but I then began to research the story behind each design. The interest in cap badges evolved into an interest in British Victorian and Edwardian helmet plates, so I began to collect blue cloth helmets and heavy cavalry helmets. Again, odd as it might seem, I only collected the plates and helmets which appealed to me aesthetically. I’m not a completer, who has to have one of everything. I aim to be able to display everything I have, so it has to give me pleasure to look at. As far as the thrill of the chase is concerned, this is a key bit for me. Developing an interest in an object, researching its history, and then setting out to track it down and acquire it is absorbing and satisfying, and has led to making many contacts with fellow collectors, and membership of forums like this. Ultimately, this is perhaps more important than owning some of the objects. Why do so many of us sell off objects which we once moved heaven and earth to find, if not to generate the money and the opportunity to set off on another chase? Patrick
  2. I agree with Bayern. I think this is an artificially aged repro of a pickelhaube to fusilier regiment 33 or 34. I don’t know how much an original would cost, but a lot more than a standard Prussian OR pickelhaube.
  3. The colours of the cockade are right for Sachsen Coburg IR95, but it should be smooth edged.
  4. Brian Loree, who runs the ‘ Pickelhaubes.com’ forum is a superb restorer of old, decayed and damaged pickelhaubes. You can see his work in the ‘ Restoration’ section. Send him a pm via the forum and ask his advice. Patrick
  5. Brian, I have recently returned to the Club, after quite a while - the absence wasn’t for any particularly good reason - just life. I have really enjoyed catching up with your ruminations. Thanks for your efforts. I never expected to see bread pudding mentioned on a military interest site! It reminds me that , when I was a kid, my mum used to make it, or apple sponge with custard, for Saturday lunch. This was fine when I played lacrosse on a Saturday morning as a junior, but was probably the main reason I never hit the high spots as a senior, playing on a Saturday afternoon. I’m not Canadian, by the way, lacrosse was a big thing around the Manchester area, where I grew up 50+ years ago. Is this the first time lacrosse has been mentioned on GMIC? Wasn’t it Miss Piggy who said “Pretentious, moi?”. Anyway, keep up the good work. Patrick
  6. Has the gilt gone, or is just dulled? If the former, I can't help, I'm afraid. If the latter, Hagerty silver and multimetal foam can produce remarkable results. I have used it on blue cloth helmet plates and waist belt clasps with great success. It is not abrasive and does not damage the gilt. I was put on to it by a guy who is one of the top restorers of pickelhaubes, - he uses it to bring fire gilt on officer helmets back to life. Patrick
  7. That is a superb , and possibly unique, set. The only way you would know for sure what it's worth would be to put it into a good militaria auction. If a dealer offered you £4000 it's probably worth twice that! Patrick
  8. I agree withTony on the ID. I have mounted helmet plates and buttons on card with black or red velvet type fabric stretched over the card and glued at the back ,then fitted into a frame. Small holes punched through for the loops and matchsticks or similar through the loops to secure the pieces. Cleaning is a personal decision. If you do clean, the white metal rose within the bugle horn device and the scrolls can be done with a metal polish, or Worcestershire sauce, if you want something non- abrasive. You may need to wipe the cloth, once you've cleaned the metal of the device. Do not try to remove the bugle horn device or the small scroll from the cloth at any point as it's almost certain that one or more of the bent retaining wires will break. If, as it seems from the photos,there is still gilt on the bugle horn and the rest of the plate then on no account use a metal polish to clean as it will remove the gilt. Warm soapy water and a soft brush is all I would use, although some people use diluted ammonia or lemon juice. Buttons can be done with a metal polish like Brasso. A nice set- congratulations on hanging on to the pieces. Patrick
  9. Grey C, Thanks for the reply, which was a very good lead. After doing some digging I've now established that it is a pre-1897 badge indicating membership of the port watch. It would be on the right sleeve for starboard watch. It is mentioned in the 1890 uniform regulations for the Royal Navy, but disappears in1897, so the uniform is obviously not 20th century. Patrick
  10. I am trying to help a member of another forum to identify a badge on a Royal Navy white uniform . It is a blue horizontal stripe high up on the left arm above the the rating badge ( Petty Officer 2nd Class) and good conduct chevrons. The uniform dates, we think, from the early 20th century. I have looked at the 1897 dress regulations but can find nothing like it. Any ideas? Thanks Patrick
  11. I don't know the answer to the question, but the place to get really good advice on restoration and maintenance is pickelhaubes.com . There is a section entitled 'restoration' and Brian Loree is the guru. He does some amazing work. Patrick
  12. Chris, It's years since I collected cap badges, and I'm quite happy to be corrected on my thoughts. My first reaction is that the back looks very shiny and clean, often the sign of a modern copy. However, the front looks to have been well polished, with highlights rubbed down, which suggests it might be genuine. How big is it? I don't recall seeing a cap badge like this, but I have seen pouch badges in this design. Final thought- it looks as though it has been cast, rather than struck from a die. This could mean that it's a poor copy. Some cast badges are genuine, and were made when a unit was stationed overseas, but I'm not sure Engineer Volunteers would have been posted abroad. Hope somebody more knowledgeable can help Patrick
  13. I'm a bit rusty on bages, and I don't have my books to hand, but the Cyclist Corps and Tyneside Irish are definitely WW1 period as, I think is the Carenarvonshire Volunteers. The Tyneside badge looks very shiny and new, and, despite the maker's mark, could well be a modern copy. Original Tyneside Irish badges are hard to find and not cheap, so if this one you've struck lucky.. The REME badge is post WW2 I think. The crown was the same for all monarchs after Victoria and before Elizabeth II. Patrick
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