kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 HELP!! my iron cross 2nd class WW2 starts oxidizing!! there are some spot near the frame that oxidize.. Is it because i live in tropical area? the humidity? or what? Any advice to stop it? My other iron Cross (ww1) have no problem such it.. :anmatcat: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimZ Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) I would initially try a light coating of gun oil on the iron core to see if it helps. Of course this depends on the degree of corrosion. In doing so do make sure that you protect the ribbon as oil and ribbons are not the best of friends. Maybe you may want to wait for other suggestions before you try this. All I can say is that I had applied this treatment to steel helmets and it seemed to work wonders - never quite tried it on a medal though as I do not have too many iron medals!!...just a handful of EK's that seemed to be doing fine (last time I checked). Can you post a scan?? Edited April 21, 2011 by JimZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thank you Jim, but unfortunately i have no gun oil..:blush: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hauptmann Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Windu, best if you post a good clear picture of the side of the EK that's having the problem, and possibly a closeup of the area of concern. That will help determine the best action to take. As far as oil, doesn't necessarily have to be gun oil. Just a thin oil... don't know if you have something called 3in1 oil over there or not but that would work. I'm sure if you went to a hardware store they could provide what you'd need. Just something to protect it from further harm. But again, just a tiny bit will do and then use a soft cloth to spread that over the area and the rest of the core. But again, hold off until you can post some good, clear pics... scans are better. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Wolfe Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thank you Jim, but unfortunately i have no gun oil.. As Dan has pointed out the brand 3 in 1 is a light machine oil. If you don't have that brand then go to a store that sells sewing machines and they will be able to provide you with a good light oil. I use my wife's sewing machine oil when I need a light oil. Again, to echo others, use only the smallest amount and that will be enough. Good luck. Regards Brian Oh yes, you are probably correct, the problem may be the humidity in your country. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thanks all, 3 in 1 oil? Mm, i ever saw my mother use it for her sewing machine.. I hope i can get a good camera to take photo of it (2mm phone camera can't provide clear image) My WW1 EK2 is not oxidize, while my WW2 EK2 is oxidizing, they are in the same room and the same place, how it can be? Is it caused by the quality? In last 6 month i feel that my place and surrounding is humid due to the climate.. -Windu- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimZ Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Yes, sewing machine oil works very well.... I had an old bottle of Singer oil that did the trick just as well. Its also important that the oil is clear machine oils and the finer/thiner it is the better - which is why i suggested gun oil. A drop or two will probably be all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimZ Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thanks all, 3 in 1 oil? Mm, i ever saw my mother use it for her sewing machine.. I hope i can get a good camera to take photo of it (2mm phone camera can't provide clear image) My WW1 EK2 is not oxidize, while my WW2 EK2 is oxidizing, they are in the same room and the same place, how it can be? Is it caused by the quality? In last 6 month i feel that my place and surrounding is humid due to the climate.. -Windu- Windu, If Indonesia is as bad as Singapore was when I went there its hardly surprising that humidity may cause damage. I once noticed pitting on the surface of some guns in a collection - the culprit - displaying these high up in a room with limestone walls. The accumulation of dust from the walls and other normal dust on the top of the barrel trapped some humidity which led to this corrosion on the exposed parts of the gun. As for your EKs, you can never determine what's trigerring it off - it may partially be the grade of the iron used but I'd say that more importantly, it is what the medal was exposed to before it came into your possession (assuming that you are taking all necessary precautions). Take for example prolonged exposure to humidity or to sea air, physical damage to the core of the medal itself, or the cleaning of the medal with chemicals trapping some of these under the silver frame....just as some ideas off the top of my head. Will look forward to the scans. Jim :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Stahlhut Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) hi windu, in my experience, the best rust inhibitor on the market is Boeshield T9. it was developed for use on motorcycles, boats, and airplanes, and it does a great job of stabilizing and protecting ek cores that have been oxidized, and is also easy to remove if so desired. kind regards, eric p.s. bicycle chain oil might help if you can't find any boeshield t9! Edited April 21, 2011 by Eric Stahlhut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thank you Jim.. The humidity is not as extreme as Singapore.. The sea air in Singapore+humidity levels is very high, while my place is far from the sea.. I haven't framed my collection, I still place it in the open air, and some in bubble envelope.. :speechless: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Eric, what's that? I never see it before here.. But the bicycle chain lube/oil is easy to get.. Windu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Stahlhut Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 windu, i would try asking at a motorcycle parts store or a marine supply store. what i like about boeshield t9 is that it is not oily and leaves a clear wax protective layer on the core, and is easily removed with mineral spirits. it won't damage the ribbon--something you have to consider when using oil as a protectant. also, as a word of caution: sometimes oil-based preservatives can get under the core finish and cause the paint to separate from the core... good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darrell Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Oxidizing? You mean rust? I'd post a photo before you go throwing some type of oil onto it. You need to be very careful, some oils will lift and remove the paint that is still there .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Yes, some tiny rust in some places in the core: 1. Front: a. In 12 o'clock, 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock core arms, near the frame (near the spaces between the frame and core, i think the humid air is concentrated in that space!) b. Between swastika's lower arms (7-8 o'clock) 2. Reverse: in the 12 o'clock arm near the frame.. This is my first EK, and my only EK2 from WW2 period, i really love it.. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darrell Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I have used some oil in the past to take care of some minor rust spots ... but in some cases ... best to leave well enough alone. I'd post some pics before proceeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 Here's my scan, sorry if it isn't clear enough.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 The area of oxidation (inner the black line).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimZ Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Cannot see what's what Windu! And I doubt anyone can help you much with that quality of "scan". Try a flat bed scanner or if its a camera, then try to focus. I'd half say that was a pic taken a low res webcam or a mobile phone :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 The reverse is also rusting (just some tiny rust on 12 o'clock arm.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 Cannot see what's what Windu! And I doubt anyone can help you much with that quality of "scan". Try a flat bed scanner or if its a camera, then try to focus. I'd half say that was a pic taken a low res webcam or a mobile phone yup, 2MP phone camera.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hauptmann Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Sorry Windu but Jim's absolutely correct... none of us will be able to help on the basis of these pics. I really hate to say that. Do you possible have access to a scanner at school? Or does a friend or relative have a digital camera you could use to do the pics (or have them take them? If a camera, see if it has a macro function as many do and that would allow you to take closer shots while keeping it in focus. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kapten_windu Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 Okay, i'll try to borrow a good camera from my friend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieter3 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I might recommend a wax like Renaissance wax. I use this on certain gun parts, as well as antique cartridges. It is best on smooth surfaces of course and can be hard to work with on rough surfaces and relief. Just a thought! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watchdog Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 (edited) I might recommend a wax like Renaissance wax. I use this on certain gun parts, as well as antique cartridges. It is best on smooth surfaces of course and can be hard to work with on rough surfaces and relief. Just a thought! I agree that Renaissance Wax (this is a brand name) is good and highly thought of in many areas of artifact conservation but I doubt you would find it except by ordering it on the internet whereas I believe something like Vaseline (a petroleum jelly meant for topical application to human skin) should be available in your local pharmacy. First remove the surface rust with something like a toothbrush, nothing harder!. Ensure that the medal is 100% dry. Then, using the cleaned and dry toothbrush apply a very small amount of Vaseline and brush it into every feature of the medal. Leave the medal in a warm dry place for a couple of hours then wipe it over with a clean piece of lint-free cloth. You should notice a great improvement and the rusting should not progress. The trick is to use only a very small amout of Vaseline and not leave a visible residue. Some people do not like this method as some badges may look a little darker afterwards but any kind of oil etc will produce a much mor pronounced effect and will attract dust. If the Vaseline method is done lighly enough it will be barely noticeable on an EK and it is easily removed without causing any damage. I hope this helps. PS Vaseline is virtually the same as Cosmoline but much lighter and with slightly different ingredients. Edited January 8, 2012 by Watchdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimZ Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Good to see there are still several ideas and suggestions being made. And of course the treatments proposed may also apply to other collectible items. However, and if can be truly honest, in a case like this, and unless the EK is part of a group or special for any other reason (specific maker or specific history attributed to the piece in question), the best form of restoration is to simply trade up! Possibly at the cost of only a few dollars you might be able to upgrade your EK without the need or risk of messing it up. Yes..yes...this is simply passing the buck... and if you, like Harry Truman believe that the buck stops with you, please disregard this advice Bit its just a thought and perhaps, the easiest way out!! Alternatively, be more careful when buying a collectible, with the intention of buying once and buying well! (assuming you can resist a bargain!!!) Jim :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now