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panzerfaust restoration


GODISHIGH
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hello, how would I go about restoring my panzerfaust, I have auto body filler and the panzerfaust is sandblasted and primed already can I just put the filler on it now or do I have to grind it?

I have never restored anything so any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to ruin the panzerfaust

thanks
john
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John

Notwithstanding the purists amongst us who would question the restoration, I may be able to help given the amount of old cars, motorcycles and relic stuff I've done over the years.

A photo or two would help but I'm assuming the restoration bridge question has been crossed. As with any work to improve anything, it's all about the foundation and what you want when it's finished. A crappy foundation will end in a temporary bodge.

As it's been sandblasted I assume all the rust is gone. Are you now left with a tube with holes or is it just pitted? You say it's primed, I assume its the correct metal primer paint.

The body filler needs to be able to 'stick' to whatever you are filling, if the surface is rough, i.e loads of pitting then mix up your filler and apply. If the surface is smooth - like a car body panel then you will need to scuff it up with one of those pan cleaning gilberts or some light sanding. Lots of people say you should only fill onto bare metal, take no notice, it's fine onto paint.

The filling you need to do will depend on what you want to achieve at the end. A custom deep paint job will require lots of filling and sanding, military stuff is normally matt and doesn't need that sort of sanding and filling but you do need to think about what you want it to look like. Some filling is left with lumps to keep the relic, old look while others go for the ultra glossy finish.

Take care to mix correctly and don't put too much hardener in. It'll go hard before you've finished which will mean you will try to use as it's hardening and it won't adhere properly. Even though body fillers say they are 'easy sand', they are not if you are doing a large area. Overfill only slightly so that you do not have to spend hours sanding back to your surface level.

Try to use a machine sander rather than by hand (or use a block with sandpaper wrapped round) as you want to keep the surface flat.

Once all sanded then paint with a matt filler primer (comes in rattle cans at car spares shops). This will show up all the bits you've missed or need to sand over.

Keep sanding, filling, painting over bits until you've got the look you wanted. Then paint (by hand, by gun or airbrush) to desired colours. Then protect with a sprayed laquer (gloss or matt or satin).

Most paints are now environmentally friendly and are latex water based. But check that what you are using will not cock up what you already put on. Test a weeny bit first but if you stay with one brand and finish from a model hobby shop then you should be fine.

Loads of stuff about this available on t'tinternet but am happy to help with specific questions. Follow my post on painting Mervyn's prize helmet and you wont go too far wrong.

Spaz

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John

I didn't realise you had the projectile as well, good find. Are both the warhead and the firing tube safe? There was a (I think) cardboard charge filled with black powder in the firing tubes in these 60 or 100s. I'm assuming its all inert. Pretty good that you have the wooden tail that used to have paper fins that were curled up in the tube.

The wooden part will need to be treated differently to the steel sections. You can get wood treatments, filler etc from B&Qs (hardware shop).

Lots of work to restore this, if that's what you want as it's pretty cool as it is. It does need some rust converter on it though even if you are going to restore. Easily obtained from ebay or motor spares shops. Wire brush off the larger areas of rust and brush the rust convertor and inhibitor on. It dries pretty quickly and turns black as it does. Any rust coloured bits need cleaning off and painting again, put 3 or 4 coats on.

I'm assuming the aiming sight/trigger is rusted in place. It would be possible to dismantle but looks like you'd need to drill the pins and replace.

Then fill as above till you get what you want. Paint desired colour from t'tinternet photos. I expect you could even find a copy of the warhead instruction sticker and put that on before you laquer.

Jobs a good un

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