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    Fariz

    Past Contributor
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    Posts posted by Fariz

    1. Hello,

      I recently bought a Silver Wound badge marked L/53. It came with a case but the case is marked L/59.

      I've been hunting for photos of L/53s for comparison and I've noticed that on all of the photos I've seen,

      the L/53 mark is on the reverse centre of the badge. The problem is, on my badge, the L/53 mark is to the lower portion of the badge, near the catch.

      Was it common for makers to apply the LDO markings on different parts of the badge?

      Merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year

      Fariz

    2. Apologies for the bad photos. I would be very grateful for assistance with an EK1 bought in 2003.

      It is convex and has the features of a souval:

      - Ridges on the outer corners

      - Flaw on the left top arm

      - And I think a dipping "3" [all not very visible due the quality of the photos]

      Assuming it's original, is it a definitely a Souval made EK1?

      From what little I know, EK1s made by other firms also had similiar features.

      Thank you very much.

      Best Regards,

      Fariz

    3. I know this is a hard question to answer without the aid of photos but what's the easiest way to tell if a sleeve patch or cuff title is felt embroidered, machine embroidered or BEVO? And whats the difference between felt and machine embroidered?

      If I'm not mistaken, the 'Afrikakorps' cufftitle is machine embroidered, whilst the 'Afrika' [with palms] and most middle to late war Waffen SS cufftitles were BEVO?

      Regards,

      Fariz

    4. Hello,

      Thanks for the feedback. I made a mistake in my first post, the items with KO and Wilm markings are EK 2s not EK 1s.

      Guys I dont know much about WW1 EK2s and would really appreciate some help with the following questions:

      1. Were WW1 EK 2s made in a similiar way to WW2 EK2s in that both were made of 3 pieces- inner core and 2 silver rims?

      2. Has any serious attempts been made to fake WW1 EK 2? The reason I'm asking this is because most WW1 EK 2s for sale dont seem to show any signs of 'wear and tear', unlike most WW2 EK 2s on the market which have missing enamel, scratches, signs of rust, etc. [most WW1 EK 2s sold, even by reputable dealers look fairly new]

      Thank you.

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