Spasm

Thanks Gents. Thanks very much.

Keven

Welcome to GMIC, nice to see you here.

Thanks very much for that, high praise indeed. I've never really thought of doing a video - I normally run away from cameras. But you never know youtube can't be that hard, can it?

If you are ever over this side of the pond, or I come over there, we can sort some live lessons, I'll bring me paints and brushes. Feeling a bit humble now, thanks.

Steve

Here's the completed water bottles as requested

We've stepped into that difficult area that we've tried to discuss before. One that I've thought about over the couple of years that I've been doing my thing with some paint and brushes. I'll try to keep my thinking short as pointing to the problems could fill a book no doubt.

There are a few areas here, discussing the replica/original rebuilds, restorations, fakes and then reselling, along with the continued questions of sourcing relics, historical value etc etc. 

The restored relics that are more hole than iron are easily recognisable as restorations no matter how good the work is to restore them. If the intention is to sell as a fully original item then the work becomes so difficult that it would be easier to manufacture a new one or using a good quality original. 

Using a good quality original item, adding paint/engraving/decal etc. to make into something that is more than it was originally will be carried out while the want is there. The effort in making these items requires great skill, experience and a lot of resource. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to mark these items to stop them being 'amended' in some way so that they are not accepted by some guy down the line as an original. The work done to create these objects in the first place made the faker's work a lot easier. It may be as easy as just wiping off some paint or filling an engraving or grinding down a weld.

Some years ago it wouldn't have been worth doing the work to create a copy as the originals were relatively cheap. These days, collectors either do not have the dollars or the desire to spend half of their life savings on an item. Therefore, there will be a market for copies. As an original item's value increases then the copies will get better as the skills and resources can be increased also.

I have no problem with good copies as long as they are sold as such. And in the collecting field I think they are very real value for money given the skills that have gone into making them. Who has an original VC on the wall?

The problem we all have are the people who knowingly sell copies or enhanced items as originals. I've been robbed by them and I'm sure a lot of others have been also. That problem won't go away, unless you walk away from them with your money still in your pocket. 

The actual painting bit wouldn't take that long particularly compared with that outstanding Adrian. maybe a day or two compared to about 5 or 6 days.

Really depends on what you want.

Today's mission is 'Brooding soldier looking down on a simple cross in a poppy field with "Somme" written above' on a WW2 water bottle that has been supplied for the work. Crack on.  

Like my Dad said once - "if you added up all the war films they'd last longer than the bloody war did."

As I said in one of my posts, there's no way I'd buy a camo helmet. I don't own any so called 'original' German helmets other than relics. The ones that are selling for £300 at militaria shows here are absolute rubbish, anything any good is up around a Grand. And $20,000 plus for a DAK Fallschirmjager that I've seen advertised is just madness. Why do you think there's fakes? Let the blokes who fork out for fantasy daggers complete their collection with AH's helmet. 

I like the helmet in the box. If it was real how much would it be worth? a lot more than $750. Whoever bought it has got himself something real nice for his display without having had his trousers pulled down. It's a low price for a dazzling piece given the time taken to produce it.  

Yes, probably right but it's still annoying. 

Right, this is my very last restoration on a helmet that has been welded, chromed or painted in some bitumen or house gloss paint! Our patio doors have been ruined by me grinding too close to them, my wrists are burnt from paint stripper and I'm fed up with sanding filler and welds that people just can't do right.

That's my lot on bringing back dead helmets that a carrot has painted with hammerite or covered in some oily gunk. If you have a relic helmet, leave it alone, keep it dry, it'll be fine. It's lasted 70 - 100 years in the ground, your shelf will be a relief for it.

I'm off to soak my hands in some cold water and have a lay down. 

Just been sent this by an ex member of the Regiment. Here's the blade in it's hand made oak frame (not my work) and on the wall. Looks really good I think...

It's a Delaunay-Belleville. The French Rolls-Royce of it's time. Maybe a 1913 model. Probably why the French are having their photos taken with it.  

Yes, I think it was a definite hit during conflict rather than damage under a farmer's implement. And I agree, best left alone to tell it's own story in the history of things. Preserve and make a nice stand for it I think.

Thanks Gents 

Having a chat with Tony earlier today reminded me that I've got to get on with some constructive things. So, as I've got a couple of these to clean up, I made a start.

This one, I've always known to have a crack in it. Covered in rock hard mud, a thick layer of chalk and rust - it came from near the Lochnagar Crater, or rather the Glory Hole, as the area is being cleared for visitors (along with a newly discovered tunnel that I had a look down last month).

I've always assumed that it had been hit by a plough, or some farming machine, and that I'd have to clean and then weld up to keep it in one piece. 

After a few hours of cleaning and getting the 'gate/hatch' to operate, here is how it looks:  

The crack is fairly obvious running from the top middle down to the 'stop' bolt for the hatch.

However, it may not have been some heavy farming machinery that caused this thick steel plate to crack after all:

Now, I'm no ballistic expert. But would you say that this is a bullet strike while this plate was in place? I can't ever remember seeing a bullet hit on a quarter inch steel plate (I've seen larger rounds on tank armour in the Tank Museum and they sort of make a gouge or a hole rather than just a dent.)

So, I'm figuring that if this is likely to be a bullet hit from Tommy chancing his arm then I should leave the crack alone and not weld it up as it's part of it's story. Or am I making something up here? Any steel plate hitting experience out there?  

Gone from M40 to M16s.

This one sent home as a souvenir. You can just make out the red Censor's stamp on the parcel label. Although a stamped relic ET66, it's been brought back from the brink to look pretty good on the shelf. Just waiting for the liner and chin strap.

None of it is original, all copies and fakes. A bloody good artist though I hear.  Cheers my man.

Thanks Tony 

How about this one then? Weighs in at 7lbs! Blimey, they must've had big necks....

The inscription under the rim reads: Ers.Batl.Res.J.R.Nr.11   1.K.Nr.1201.Nester

Yep, a Lebel grease tin. Grease one side and boot polish the other I think. Was also used to hold matches and the like when empty.

Given to me by a good guy who gets me relics on his regular visits to Flanders. It'll be given back to him, now it's painted, at the next militaria show I see him. Only right as he's a jolly good chap.

I try to keep them unobstrusive so as to not deter from the object I've painted. Larger would be easier and seeing as you've only just noticed it on yours then larger they will be. Thanks Tony. 

Same as that Jock, I would doubt anything that isn't just plain grey. There wasn't that much chicken wire or camouflage paint around in those days. I would put money on nearly every fancy helmet being a hobby craft one.

Hardly ever did a Troopie slop paint around on his helmet and gear, it was already miles too heavy in it's original state. I've even seen textured and camouflage painted gas mask tins for sale, good grief, and at a very heavy price too. 

I don't doubt that some of it is the real McCoy but would I pay those sort of prices, not a hope. Stick with the skips and the known copies, it all looks pretty good in the war room/shed/cupboard/shelf/drawer/shoe box. And just how many people have actually wanted to have a look at your stuff and known anything about any of it?  

Another abused Quist M40 brought back to life. I had another bread bag strap hanging around so did it as a Lufty to match. Notice the brighter shade to the helmet and decal under the strap.

You remember that trunk full of SS Officer's rings that have never been found, or that Werewolf unit who hid a trunk full of gold, or those looted pieces of Polish relics, or bits of the Amber room from St Petersburg............or yes, maybe a Luger. 

Cedar trunks in the attic that should never be opened.........blimey, I wonder what they could be hiding?

An original Quist M40 brought back to life. Had holes drilled for an applied badge and a 'orrible grey and red enamel paint job.

Lots of elbow grease but worth it I think with the 1940 dated bread bag strap.

I would say the Inspector's mark.

Just got back from the National Commemorative Event to mark the Centenary of the Battle of the Somme. Held at the Commonwealth War Graves Commission's Thiepval Memorial to the Missing of the Somme.

A very moving return to the battlefield in a spirit of reconciliation and respect. Their sacrifice and suffering will never be forgotten. - words from Prince Charles.