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I think that early crosses are those, whose production technique is similar to 1870ers - with sandcast blackened core. They can be even unmarked. It is quite accepted opinion. The production technique is the first thing to look for when identifying cross as early/late, not the style of marking.

Sorry Mr. Tifes, but when Mr. Elmar Lang picked only one statement of mine to disagree with, I understand it the way, that he agree with everything else what I said. If it does mean, that everything what I said is wrong, because one of my statements was doubted, just let me know.

Secondly, I am still speaking about awarded badges. Late war awarded Karl badges were on pin. Like mine. I highly doubt, that Mr. Lang will disagree with this statement, because it was him, who kindly approved this badge on WAF when I bought it.

Thirdly, If you have better online source than Emedals for beginners or those interested in Austrian Pilot badges to help them with detailed photographic material, just post the link here, so everyone can see it, learn it and make its own opinion. 

To Mr. Elmar´s statement. I probably didn´t use English language correctly, but I was not speaking about common hairline cracks, visible to naked eye and lowering the price of enamelled award. I was trying to depict micro cracks that appear only under microscope or strong lens and happen to all glass older than 10-20 years. Doesn´t matter if it is window, windscreen of the car, or glass enamel (transparent enamel). It´s not about bad preserving, but about internal tension of the material. If you will ever have the chance to compare old glass enamel with modern polymer epoxide the enamels on fake badges are made of, and which is always clear like water, you will surely see what I am speaking about.

Nice three badges posted together. I would just like to correct one thing - the statement that all original wartime Karl Pilot badges should be on hooks, is wrong statement. Late war Karl badges are seen with pin and are completely legitimate. If you check Austrian Imperial section at Emedals, you can find couple of them. Late war Karl´s badge has other slight differences:
- Ribbon around the crown is not red enamelled, just gilded
- Leaves in wreath are not dark green, but yellow - green (so called Autumn leaves)
- Ribbon ends doesn´t touch crown headband.

If I can make some quick advice how to tell fake badge from original - at first look at wreath enamels. Every leaf should be enamelled separately. If the wreath is enamelled together with one coating, it´s just the fake. Secondly - check the enamels under the strong lens or microscope. Even on good preserved badge, microsmall hairline cracks must be seen. If the enamel is clear like it was made yesterday - it was made yesterday.

Textbook mid to late war Godet. Surely cleaned, but it will receive typical deep black patina (as can be seen around the catch) quite quickly.

Very nice trio, despite of bad pics.​

Soldering of the frame halves

 

Reverse
 

I like it, although it has cracked core and repair to the catch, but with these pricy purchases every other opinion is always welcomed.

Obverse

EK1 sold for 4.200 € + buyers premium 23%. Hitler´s aquarell of Vienna sold for 31.000 € + premium. Now you can´t say he was a bad painter, heh.

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Thanks, Chris. I just quoted the auction description (I hope I remember it correctly). But without paper proof, everything is just a guess.

...and I just completed this set of Godet Deutsche Ehrendenkmunze types. From left to right gilded bronze, copper, solid bronze.

My catch at last Bene Merenti auction. Godet chain of Bavarian soldier, who made from the rank of NCO (MVK1X) to captain (MVO4X).

This lot (for EK1) consists of 100 € of metal and thousands € of belief. Quite disproportion, I say.

Of course it doesn´t exist. It was my way to say I wouldn´t believe in any provenance letter anyway. Fortunately, in this case, as many times before, I am protected by the guardian angel called Shallow Pocket.

In 2010, same auction site (Hermann Historica) offered Hitler´s EK1 with provenance letter from Amy Winter. That times it was cased S-W. It got sold for 180.000 euros.
Personally, I would believe only to provenance letter from Adolf Hitler.

This link will help
http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405722&highlight=Hitler+EK1

TR era S&L or Deumer.

It looks like NSDAP Long service Award, 3rd class. The only problem is that it should have eagle device on it. But not necessarily, as you see on first photo.
Without that device, it can be Prussian Firefighters Award for 25 years of service (second photo).

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Just as an example what is possible:
This miniature had broken hook for attaching mini. The cross was attached through the eyelet, that was mounted via black thread around the button ring (first photo). Jeweler had to repair the hook in a cold process, as I refused to dismount the ribbon, which would burn during soldering. So he made a threaded hole to the button ring and the hook acted as a screw. The repair was finished with the drop of Potassium sulfid which caused the instant patina and left virtually no traces of repair work.

Looks very similar to this one: http://www.emedals.com/highlighted-offerings/europe/spain/medals/other/1925-homage-to-the-royal-family-medal-eu6503

Something I don´t see very often. Interesting ribbon rosette consisting of 1864, 1866 and 1870/71 campaign ribbons, 25 oaks in Prinzen size and some kind of regimental badge. Hardware contains safety pin and hook for attaching (probably) prinzen EK. Device is completely UV negativ (ribbons, thread, backing). Any opinions welcomed.
 

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I would just add, that your nice A type cross has experienced horrible repaint, Eric. Or better said, first paint over blackening. It dramatically hides the details of the crown and gives ground dug look to this quite valuable cross. I think hot air pistol would be very helpful in such case. As you see, this garage door style paint is already cracking out, so it is only question of time when it will contaminate the display (or storage) place. Gun oil or pure WD40 is better in keeping Franco-Prussian war cross from rusting.
I would be also interested in seeing the reverse of the jubileum clasp - if the oaks are hollow struck and what is the position of (broken) prongs. If they were attached at the center, or from the sides.

Looking forward to see the photos for third week. ​Maybe it would be better - and quicker - to repost the pics.

Of course you´re right. Although I don´t think there is some unnecessary debate on the forum. There is always something to learn. This thread is another reason to repeat, that mark should be handled only as a supporting evidence. This is what I always say to those happy with their "O" or "C" crosses, which turn out to be textbook Godets. Ring can be  just badly stamped - not necessarily replaced by forger. Every theory based on MM only, is castle of sand.

Following one simple scientific rule can eliminate any confusion - every idea can be accepted only when supporting experiment is repeated three times with the same results. Translated to our language - every new variant can be accepted only after finding three identical exemplars of that kind. And, as we see, this is chain of rings with random marks.

Such thing can be really soldered back without leaving trace and even patinated. All you need is a jeweler who is experienced in repairing jewelery. When it comes to gold and silver, there is no problem. Neusilber, zinc and brass are another cup of tea. It is not harder, jewelers just haven´t tools for it, as their tools for repairing gold and silver work with different temperatures.

But I still think, that this can be trap only for beginners. Cross is frame and core, not mark on the ring.

I was bidding live via internet, not on Lundstrom stuff though, but while waiting for my lots, I was observing that many things went well over estimate. Only a few lots passed.

I got nice item, so I was satisfied. Thanks for letting me know about this auction, Paul.