2dresq

Those are awesome.

I would love to be as successful and achieve a collection like that.

Regards,

2dresq

I have been offered this tally,

I have some doubts, but I wanted to run it by.

Thanks,

JustinG

Thanks, that puts it in a whole new perspective.

Thanks for the detailed response.

Regards,

2dresq

I am sorry, I was confusing.

Yes, the HSF badges have a concave appearance, I believe that the Schwerin examples have some of the more pronounced concave pattern.

I was curious in the molding and why the HSF badge for all makers seemed to be concave vs what Gordon stated, the Coastal Art. badges have a flat reverse side, as do most of the other KM badges, with the only exception being the S-boat first model for some makers.

As Gordon W. put it: "Only the obverse deisgns were specified in the original foundation orders, so whether a badge ended up with a concave reverse like the Fleet Badge or a flat back like the Marine Artillery was most likely decided for technical reasons by the guys responsible to creating the tooling."

I guess what also got me thinking, was that it would be very costly for a company, (Schwerin, FB, RK, RSS, etc.. To invest in this tooling and machine dye set because of a front and back plate to adjust their company's maker mark emboised in the badge. Just an observation, I am not sure how many people (rough estimate qualified for the HSF badge) I wouldn't have thought it profitable for so many companies to produce such a badge.

I was just curious on why and for what purpose that the badge was needed to be in a concave format vs a flat format... It probably was because of machinery design and

Sorry for my poor wording and for confusing everyone.

Thank you Martin W. and Gordon W. for your responses.

I greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

2dresq

Very interesting thread.

Interesting to note as well with the circular indentation of FLL badges.

Thanks for pointing this out.

Regards,

2dresq

Greetings, I was curious why the HSF badge, especially the Schwerin Berlin model was the only one of the Kriegsmarine badges that appeared in a concaive design?

I wonder why this is?

Does any one have an explanation for this?

The RSS, the AS and other makers of the badge seemed to not follow this design feature but yet the Schwerin did?

Well, just wanted to ask that.

Thanks for looking and for your guesses/answers.

Regards,

2dresq

Thanks Darrell,

Regards,

2dresq

pin up reverse shot.

I greatly appreciate your responses.

Thanks and regards,

2dresq

Close up of pin assembly

reverse pin down.

Greetings,

This fine piece has been offered to me. I believe that this is a good example of this badge. I would like to know the members opinions on this forum and their expertise.

Thank you for your time in this matter.

Regards,

2dresq

My named ship tallies :cheers:

Here are a few others.

I thought I would supply some better shots and show the catch and the pin assembly and mounting to the plate.

Here are some better shots.

Greetings,

I don't believe that this topic has ever been discussed. I have read some of the reference books on the insignia and am aware of the general design and pattern.

My question is regarding how to tell if the rating badge is authentic Kriegsmarine or if it is a Bundesmarine patch.

Is there something I am missing. I see that these patches are relatively inexpensive and so I am wondering if there are any forgeries or post war loss of quality to be noted.

Please help answer my question. All of my current ones, I have purchased, have been from German Dealers and I believe them to be good, that being said, there are quite a few offered on ebay for a much better bargain.

Please help this collector.

Regards,

2dresq

Justin G.

I don't have any examples of a schwerin example but here is a submission of the badge showing what I probably couldn't explain in my previous posting.

These are interesting points and new facts brought to light. I was unaware that S&L continued manufacturing after the war.

This brings an interesting question. What happened to the maker companies? Did the go into a different line perhaps silverware, etc....?

Thanks again. Is that Sub badge Funcke & Bruninghaus example one you have in your collection?

Just out of curiosity, how were you able to trace it to that particular maker?

To be honest, I took the seller and previous posting of badges with the same mark to lead me to the conclusion that it was an S&L badge. I looked through a couple of books and could not find a representation of the "o" Maker mark and attribution. I don't have Tom Durante's book in which this exact badge was used for example.

It also goes to show that reference books are only as accurate as the person who is writing them.

Regards,

2dresq

Thanks for the information.

The mold is similar to the Schwerin example. The edging where the head meets the beak has the same raised casting as the schwerin example.

This exact badge was used in Tom Durante's book I believe on page 290.

If you wouldn't mind, I would like to see the example from the publication that showed these "0" hallmark badges to be all fake.

I know that there was a good acquisition of display boards from S&L.. Barry Turk of emedals.ca had them for sale along some having naval awards, KC's and such.

It's a shame that I have never seen the catalogs and the company's take on their production of these awards.

Thanks,

Regards,

2dresq

The back.

Thanks,

Greetings,

I have completed my KM collection as far as badges. I still plan on getting a Schwerin 1st model when I find one that is in good condition.

For now, Here is my latest acquirement.

Enjoy, and thanks for looking.

2dresq

I have an mini dehumidifier which I have in the back behind my display box which I have to recharge every 2.5 weeks on average.

It all depends on how you wish to store and display them.

Best of luck.

Regards,

2dresq

The Vaseline treatment:

Apply a thin layer of vasaline to the affected area of the badge or an equal layer over the entire award. Let this sit for 24 hours. I was initially told to apply with a q-tip, however, I modified this and used an acid free touch up brush, to avoid any possible lint. The Vaseline treatment's main idea is to create a barrier from the outside air and moisture to help reduce the oxydation process.

There are several schools of thought: The Vaseline treatment is believed to trap the damage below and potentially allow the oxidizer to continue to deteriorate.

As the absence of an oxidant (in this case oxygen) does not allow for the formation of a stable oxide film which serves to protect the surface from corrosion. This will accelerate and promote additional corrosion if the potential exists, you could be doing more damage.

Coming at this from the positive side: the existing oxygen is consumed by the chemical reaction (oxidation of the zinc) which cannot be replenished due to the non-polar hydrocarbon barrier, the corrosion should cease as no more oxygen and moisture can contact the zinc. it should and in my limited use, seems to prevent long term corrosion two fold, by displacing moisture, and by preventing additional moisture and oxygen from entering the equation.

I have done this zinc treatment to my Cholm and my Narvik. I have seen some good results.

The thing that you have to realize is that zinc pest is like a cancer, you will never be able to get rid of it. The damage is done. What the petrolium jelly can do is help slow this process down.

I still do the vaseline treatment to these badges and I am very happy.

Regards,

2dresq

Avitas,

That one there you posted was from Barry Turk @ www.emedals.ca and it's a good one

He is a great guy. His staff is easy to work with and they have some nice items.

I purchased my entire shield collection from Barry.

My recommendation would be to do the vasaline treatment to your shield about every 6 months to help keep the corrosion and zinc pest from setting in further.

Congrats on your shield.

Regards,

2dresq

Justin G.

I am eagerly awaiting for your book Gordon.

Thanks for the additional information.

Regards,

2dresq

The colors have not been altered. There is discoloration on the motto band, to show what I believe is true age and due to poor keeping by previous owner.

Here is detail of center.

Regards