Discussion on frosting on etched blades

[Ibrahim Ahmad]

Hello everyone,

As a new collector in etched blades, I would like to ask some of you some questions with regards to frosting on etched blades.

Ive used the search engine on the forum as well as read several reference books but it appears to presuppose that the reader already knows about frosting.

My questions are:-

1) What is the exact definition on frosting ? Is it a compound made by the etched makers ? Or is similar to a frosting that occurs to an EK , a layer formed after several years?

2) Can frosting be reproduced in etched blades ?

3) When a etched blade has its frosted parts polished and remove, can the frosting occur again ?

4) What is the best way to maintain a frosted etched blade ? Some say use Sudsy Ammonia , Semichrome, etc.

5) If I have a dark spot on a frosted etched blade, is it still possible to remove it without damaging the frosting ?

6) Can a blued etched piece have any frosting on it ?

Shown below are 3 examples of etched blades which is fully frosted, has its frosting removed, and a blued etched piece. ( Pictures courtesy of Craig Gottlieb )

My sincere apologies if my questions are really dumb but I do thank you in advance for any answers given.

Cheers,

Ibrahim,

Singapore.

[Guest Rick Research]

Once removed or polished away, it's GONE. That is a chemical surface layer manufactured when the blade was new. I know of now way to replace it without completely re-doing the entire sword-- and that spoils any value.

Best not to do ANYTHING in case it is the wrong thing. "Cleaning" can often = "ruining." :speechless1:

[Swordguy]

Frosted and etched blades.

Never try to restore frosted and etched blades. The frosted part is an acid etch that was left rough to contrast with the higher polished serface after being plated with nickle. Any attempt to "polish" the blade will remove the nickle long before any rust will be removed and the effect will be lost for ever. Soap and water will remove any serface dirt and that is about all you should do. Polishing nickle plate should only be done by a conservation/museum trained expert. A good coat of wax will seal out moisture on a blade. A half pint can of good wax is $30 and worth it.

More fine swords have been ruined by the buffing wheel than ever rusted away. Don't buy swords in bad condition to begin with unless you really know what you are doing. Without a formal shop, leave things alone for the most part. I have seen things buffed to ruin and overcleaned to the point that it breaks your heart. I have seen leather scabbards ruined with motor oil, vasiline and "pecards" oil. Cracks and sewing "glued" back together, varnished, you name it.

So there you have it.

[Brian Wolfe]

Swordguy has nailed it on the head.

All I would add is that you must be very careful when looking for a conservation "expert". There are many, even ones in local museums, who are far from qualified to conserve a fine blade. Some will "give it a go" at the expense of the artifact. Best to leave it alone.

I find that a product named Conserver's Wax works very well, it's expensive but well worth the cost.

Nice blades by the way.

Cheers

Brian

[Swordguy]

Swordguy has nailed it on the head.

All I would add is that you must be very careful when looking for a conservation "expert". There are many, even ones in local museums, who are far from qualified to conserve a fine blade. Some will "give it a go" at the expense of the artifact. Best to leave it alone.

I find that a product named Conserver's Wax works very well, it's expensive but well worth the cost.

Nice blades by the way.

Cheers

Brian

[Swordguy]

Cleaning and restoration

To seal a blade after cleaning I use Renaissance Micro-Crystalline wax polish. A 200ml can cost thirty dollars (US) but lasts for quite some time. It is used by the British Museum. ( Picreator Enterprises Ltd. 44 Park View Gardens London NW4 2pn)

To help deacidify a leather scabbard I use British Museum "Leather Protector" a buffering agent available from Talas Library Service, NYNY. I use Talas Leather Dressing to finish and polish leather after using the protector. These products are curently the best and most useful in museum conservation.

[Ibrahim Ahmad]

Hi Swordguy,

I got the PM from Rick and I thank you very much for taking the time to help me.

Listed below are the products that I use,

Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner With Degreaser - I use it on the entire sword ( as its a water based degreasing agent instead of oil )

http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Stainless-Chro...r/dp/B000MN9LSW

Peek Metal Polish Paste - I use it to clean the sword langet and all but not the blade or etch ( Recommended by Craig Gottleib )

http://www.amazon.com/Peek-Multi-Purpose-3...5475&sr=8-1

Renaissance Wax - I use after cleaning on all parts except the etched blade ( Recommended by Ron Weinand )

http://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-ren6...5568&sr=8-3

I also do not put the blade in the scabbard as I fear of runner marks and store it in a case with a humidifier.

This is my 1st sword http://gmic.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=11198&hl= and I hope to buy another soon.

Now, my main question:-

I know Renaissance Wax is essential but what about the other 2 products Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner With Degreaser & Peek Metal Polish Paste ?

Really appreciate for any help given & thanks a lot !!

ibrahim.

[swordfish]

Ibrahim,

Very nice panel sword you got there. I love it.

Like you, I use Renwax as well. I've heard that the other museum grade wax mentioned is a very good product as well.

The only negative experience i'll add about Renwax is use on handpainted Kanji characters on a sake bottle. The Renwax immediately caused the handpainted characters to come off...a result of the petro in the product I would guess.

Edited July 19, 2008 by swordfish

[Guest IMHF]

Never Clean your Militaria thats a no go. It will deprecate the value of the Item.. It looks better when it old looking.

Lorenzo