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Brian Wolfe

Senior Moderator
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About Brian Wolfe

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    Senior Moderator

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Medals: British and India (post 1947), Special Constabulary and a few others.
    General: Staffordshire and British Police memorabilia
    Plus odds and ends that capture my interest from time to time.

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  1. Oops. In the past when I put together a tutorial I would take all of the photos ahead of time, while this time I was "winging it" as I wrote the piece. At the end of a long day I didn't notice that I had mounted the sword incorrectly. The bracket at the grip end of the sword should have been behind the sword's langet to fully show off the bugle crest. The idea is always to show as much of the items as possible while hiding the support. I could also have trimmed the bracket on an angle to hide it even more but there are times when I have to say "enough already". Below is a photo of how the mounted sword should have looked. Sorry for the error. Regards Brian
  2. I should have mentioned earlier that you need to leave the felt that will cover the top screw on the main bracket without glue until you install the screw. Then glue the felt with a drop of glue on the top of the screw to cover it and protect the specimen. This is where I should also remind you to read all of the instructions before you start. Now all that is left is to mount your bayonet, knife, small sword etc. Mine is a Pattern 1895 Mk.II Bugler’s sword which is more the size of a large dagger. Here’s a small tip that you might not think of until it is too late. If you are working over a glass shelf as in this case place a piece of wood or a thin cardboard box (that was what I used) on the shelf in case you drop a tool such as your hammer onto the glass. No need to explain why. I had also removed the sword display as past experience with renovations has taught that everything will get in the way so move it out before you start work. My next project for this cabinet will be to install LED strip lighting to the top inside. As you can see the room lights do not reach this area of the cabinet very well. I will try to remember to show before and after photos of that project when I get around to doing it. I hope this encourages you to try some do it yourself projects in the future. Regards Brian
  3. Before we talk about the bracket that will support the blade we should address a potential danger to the item being displayed. The danger is electrolysis. This is a chemical/electrical reaction between two pieces of metal that are in contact. Plumbing pipes made of copper, when in contact with steel brackets will start to experience corrosion due to this phenomenon and is prevented by using rubber gaskets or sleeves between the two metals. To prevent this from happening in the case of displaying metal weapons on metal brackets I always line the bracket with felt. I also do this with the wooden gun-rack style sword mounts I use in case there is any chemical reaction between the steel and the clear finish I use on the wood. I always wax my sword blades and scabbards but better safe than sorry when it come to any potential corrosion. A few drops of super glue will stick the felt to the metal bracket. I use a lot of different CA glues, two part epoxy and super glues as well as the usual wood glue and have found that the Ultra Gel is the easiest to use as it is not too fluid like many CA (Cyanoacrylate) glues. Be careful when using any CA or super glue as most produce a great deal of heat and when in contact with skin will burn. Yes, I have glued my fingers together on occasion, usually I glue things like felt to the side of my hand but I use latex gloves when working with the stronger glues. The most dangerous will actually “smoke” when used on wood as they produce so much heat that the moisture in the wood turns to steam. Burns of this type are extremely severe and the pain is unbelievable. If you do stick something to your fingers don’t try to tear the item off or your fingers apart, skin will rip away from your fingers unbelievably easily. Use a product such as Super Solvent, which is actually acetone to dissolve the glue. For the final bracket that will hold the blade you will need to cut the bracket still in the package (they come in pairs); just estimate the length you will need. Use a pair of side cutters to score the bracket and then bend the metal back and forth until it breaks off. It will not take too long to break the bracket as it is very soft metal. You want to make a more or less lightning bolt shape. Line this with the felt as well. Now you are ready to mount the specimen.
  4. The next step is to flatten out the bracket but not the ends where the screw holes are located. I find that gripping the bracket with the locking pliers just ahead of there “tabs” will keep them in line as you straighten out the rest of the bracket. This is important otherwise the two ends with the screw holes will not be on the same plane making installation difficult if not impossible. Next I placed the straightened out bracket on the piece of wood that in this case was ¾ of an inch thick which was exactly the same width as the edged weapon’s hand guard where it would be supported. Because you are working by hand and not with machine shop precision tools you will find that the bend, once made will be wider than the ¾ inches needed (in this case) but do not worry as I have found that this works to your advantage. I placed a second piece of wood over the straightened bracket and clamped this together as it is impossible to hold the bracket down while trying to bend it as 90° which is what you will need. This produces your first bracket of the two you will need. The photo shows the straightened bracket protruding from between the two pieces of wood. Use the hammer to lightly tap the exposed bracket downward. I have shown the shape of the finished bent bracket next to the original resting on the top surface of the anvil so you can better understand what I am saying.
  5. Once you have a few bayonets, daggers, short swords etc. You will most likely want to display them, not just for yourself but so you can bore your wife’s friends out of their little minds. Just how to get these treasures (and they are treasures) up on the wall becomes a problem. I have never liked hanging such items from hooks but will admit that I have done so and at times that seemed to be the best, if not only, answer to the problem. I have always liked the way museums displayed their edged weapons and years ago came up with my own solution. For my heaver swords that are in cabinets I have made what would best be described as “gun rack-style” mounts. However the following is a tutorial on how I mount edged weapons to a flat surface, such as a wall or in this case the inside of the side of a cabinet. I will post this in stages as the forum will not allow photos within the text so it will be best if I make several posts with the photos at the end of each step. You will need to purchase café rod brackets which can be found at just about any hardware store. These are made of soft steel with brass plating and are very easy to bend, however once screwed to the wall they become quite ridged and will hold quite a bit of weight. I would hesitate to display a full size sword on these though I have never tried. The tools you will need are minimal, a pair of locking pliers or in this case Vice-grips; the regular type, and a pair of needle-nose pliers would also be helpful. Any hard surface, NOT the kitchen counter top! I used my home-made anvil made from an old piece of rail road track. Now there was a project that I must say I almost regretted starting. But in the end, using an angle grinder and a blow-torch to make the bolt holes, I have a serviceable anvil. A hammer of any type and a couple of pieces of wood; I used pine even though in my shop hardwood is more common. The wood needs to be the thickness of the area near the weapon’s grip where you will support it on the wall. This is so that the piece you are making will fit the item you are mounting with the least bit of “playing around”.
  6. “It’s the Gospel”; a term meaning that something is beyond reproach, to be taken at face value, no questions asked. The Gospel also, of course, refers to a religious book and this is not the topic for debate today. We use the term, perhaps a bit liberally, to mean that any work, especially a work requiring research, is the definitive word on the subject. Here we are interested in military history and or collecting artefacts of historical military importance, at least important to the individual collector. In our search for information regarding our chosen areas of interest we might venture out and purchase a book or two or failing that refer to the Internet. Once we have such a book or information gleaned from the multitude of websites far too often we simply file that information away as fact, cold hard unshakeable fact. Accumulate enough of these factoids and you are an authority or expert on the subject; you might even decide to write these down and publish a book of your own, or post them a website or forum such as this one. Here’s a hypothetical problem, your research was flawed, for whatever reason you were incorrect about a fact, or two. Someone else reads your work and after a while felt they too would like to write a book and like a virus your error has been passed on, and on and on. As each new author researcher has taken your work as the definitive word on the subject, used your work, and those who followed you, to qualify their own work and now, the “virus” becomes pandemic. We read the work by author “Z” (to indicate author zero in 1966) and take his findings as correct as we might for Author “Y” (in 1975, revised edition in 1988) and then Author “X” (in 2003, 2010 and again in 2013) as we also purchased their books. I used the term “we” as I too tend to accept the works of researchers who then become authors. Why not, after all they have done the research and we (I) have simply taken the easy path and relied on their hard work. The problem was and still is that they all missed the research done in 1977 by another researcher. This is where I feel compelled to state that I am not criticising the work of any of the authors noted (or hinted at to be more accurate) as their work is for the most part completely on the mark. However, we need to remain sceptical and continue to ask questions and look for answers, not simply accept what others tell us is true. You cannot take anyone’s opinion either verbal of written as gospel. Well...except for mine of course. The sword I have managed to avoid to mention is the 1816 Baker Rifleman’s Sword which I will cover in a proper article later this winter in the section, “Let’s Talk British Swords”. I won’t go through the material found here again in the proper article but rather stick to the history of this very interesting and rare British sword. Regards Brian
  7. It looks authentic to my eyes. The naming looks correct, as to the Regiment, Lincolnshire would seem correct but there are members who would know more about that. Here in Canada the price would range around the $100. mark with the rank of Lance Corp being more desirable than a Private soldier. My price estimate is based on what I ask and get from these at the local shows where I sell medals. Mine are all with ribbons but these are cheap enough and easily purchased through eBay. I hope this helps. Regards Brian
  8. Hello Reinhard, Happy New Year to you as well and what a great post of your excellent collection to start the new year off on a high point. Many regards Brian
  9. Many thanks Andreas and Glenn. As soon as the holiday season is behind me (family Christmas on the 27th this year) I'll post the three new German additions to the sword collection. The one has a German made blade that was used on a Turkish sword that has their markings on the langet. Thank you once again. Regards Brian
  10. Hello Everyone, I was fortunate to have acquired three Imperial German swords lately, one made for use by the Ottoman Empire. These I will post at a later date. I was hoping that the membership could help me with the translation on one of the sword blades. I can figure out the easy part which states it was to a member of the Artillery Regiment No.9 but the rest is a mystery to me. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Regards Brian
  11. If it is glue any brand of mineral spirits should soften the glue and allow it to be gently removed. Even a paint thinner or turpentine should do the trick. Just be sure not the "scrub" it in any manner, scratches will completely ruin the piece. Please lets us know how you make out. Regards Brian
  12. Very nice grouping of sawbacked bayonets terrylee. Here is a photo of one of the rarest British swords and one that I recently acquired for my collection. This is a Pattern 1816 Baker Rifleman's Sword that is usually misidentified as a Pioneer or Artillery Privates hanger. I will go into the documentation supporting this identification in "Lets Talk British Swords" later when time permits. These were issued before the Baker Rifle was "fitted" for the familiar sword bayonet and when the Baker used with the then familiar socket bayonet,( I have two such Bakers in my collection), and it was decided that the rifleman needed a sidearm since a socket bayonet is of limited use when not attached to the firearm.. Regards Brian
  13. I wish I could help you out and can only add that this is one exceptional group. Don't give up on getting a response as I have seen members replying well after the initial post. Regards Brian
  14. That was quite interesting I had never heard of the hoaxer, thanks for adding to the story. Regards Brian
  15. Really? None was intended. I shall await your details. Regards and more than a little confused (happens more and more with age).😕 Brian
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