Origin of the Tourie

[MMcQuown]

What is the origin of the tourie? I have seen 18th-century reenactors' bonnets with them, usually in the same colour at the bonnet itself, but images from earlier periods show only the bonnet.

[jf42]

The tourie originated in the structure of a  knitted woollen bonnet, whereby the needles work in a spiral toward  the centre of the crown, leaving a tuft of wool in the middle- as can be found today on some French-style  berets. It became a Scottish custom, following shrinking and milling of the  finished bonnet,  to attach a small decorative pom-pom to the tuft- the word 'tourie' or 'toorie' applies to either. There is no clear evidence as to when touries in contrasting colours became standard. As early as 1742 we find illustration (*see below) of  a red tourie on the bonnet of a Highland soldier of Semple's regiment (better known  as  the  'Black Watch') although in subsequent  images, mostly officer portraits,  a  tourie is not apparent. This is true of Highland regiments in general. Increasingly,  as the military bonnet was cocked  higher and the mounting of the ostrich feather decoration grew more extravagant, touries would only have been visible on 'hummle' undress bonnets.  These were  essentially a regimental matter. In a rare glimpse, a red tourie is visible on the bonnet of a fallen Highand soldier in Copley's 'The Death of Colonel Peirson' painted  in 1783, undoubtedly painted from an existing item (**see below).  In addition, from the 1780s there may have been added refinements such as touries denoting flank companies- e.g. white for grenadiers and green for light infantry- but this would also have been a regimental matter and  the subject is obscure.

*The added caption on the image from the 1742 'Cloathing' book  is incorrect; an error repeated in many reproductions.  Semple's was numbered 43rd in the line until 1749, when it became 42nd. In 1751, when use of Colonels' names officially ceased,   the number became part of the regimental title- '42nd (Highland) Regiment of Foot'. A C19th version of the same image is attached.

[MMcQuown]

Thank you so much!  So, like Topsy, it "just grew," rather than having been an official add-on?

[jf42]

Indeed! Not that Topsy and I are well aquainted. There was little official about Highland military headgear until very late. Even after the great tightening-up  of 1800-02, Regulations basicaly implied - "and the Highland regiments do their thing"; allowing soldiers to decorate their bonnets at their own expense according  to their Colonels' discretion. Eventually Horse Guards  regulated  the height of feathered bonnets but the details of undress bonnets, even after the adoption of the glengarry across the board,  were chosen according to regimental discretion; even between battalions of the post-1881 regiments.

Edited February 20, 2016 by jf42

[MMcQuown]

Thanks again. A subject I have wondered about for a long time.

[peter monahan]

The military has a long history of 'just growing' things.  The classic examples seen today, in fact, seem to be most associated with Highland gear: the evolution of a bonnet with a plume on it into the 'feather bonnet'; the very peculiar pointed back canvas spats some pipe bands still wear and the pleating on some regimental kilts, which hide more material than they reveal for the sake of having identical verticals on each 'panel'.  Never let the practicalities get in the way of a good look!

 And, of course, the habit of sneaking in 'regimental distinctions' despite the best efforts of higher ups is, I think, endemic to all armies and an important part of the tribal nature of regiments and their members.