DMZ - North Korea / South Korea

[Christophe]

On the occasion of a trip to South Korea this month, I plan to pay a visit to the DMZ.

Have some of you already been there ?

What did you visit ? : Panmunjeom villages, tunnels, etc...

What Tour Operators do you recommand ? There are some mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide... Any suggestions ?

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers.

Ch.

[Christophe]

Here are a few pics of my recent trip in the DMZ.

The Demilitarized Zone (or DMZ) in Korea is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula that serves as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. The DMZ cuts the Korean Peninsula roughly in half, crossing the 38th parallel on an acute angle, with the west end of the DMZ lying South of the parallel and the East end lying north of it. It is 248 km long and approximately 4 km wide. (See map below).

Korea is in fact the only divided country in the world. After the Korean War (25 June 1950 - Armistice of 27 July 1953), South Korea and North Korea negotiated and then designated the DMZ 2km away from the truce line on each side of the border. DMZ is one of the last relics of the Cold War. Nowadays, DMZ tourist sites have been implemanted for both Koreans and foreign "tourists".

Ch.

Pic : Wikipedia.

[Christophe]

From Seoul to Imjingak

Because I did my trip a Sunday (no other choice...) I did not have the opportunity to visit the famous village of Panmunjeom.

Panmunjeom is located in the Joint Security Area, which is in the DMZ, 50 km north from Seoul and 10 km east from the city of Gaeseong. The place is well-known for the peace talks that were held here on 25 October 1951 and was designated as the Joint Security Area on 27 July 27 1953 when the armistice agreement was signed.

Panmunjeom is used as a conference center since the Red Cross held an international conference here on 20 September 1971. It is the only place where North Koreans and South Koreans can come in contact on a daily basis and make efforts towards the peace of Korea.

I'll post later pics of the model of the site.

Imjingak, is located 7 km from the Military Demarcation Line. It is possible to visit it without going through any security check points, so it is a popular site for tourists, Koreans or foreigners.

Here is the Freedom Bridge, the South Koreans war prisoners crossed when they came back to their mother country from North Korea. It stands behind Mangbaedan, the place where people who left North Korea visit and perform ancestral rites for reunifying families.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Plaque celebrating the re-opening (under conditions) in 2000 of the bridge, to circulation of trains that bring food and goods from the South to the North (aid program).

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Bridge of Freedom with remembrances of divided Korean families.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Freedom Bridge.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Freedom Bridge.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Actual Freedom bridge, with, on the right, what remains of the former one across the Imjin river.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Close to Freedom Bridge, the beginning of the DMZ. In fact, such fences are quite usual all the long of the road from Seoul to the North, and specifically along the river Hangang.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

Edited December 25, 2005 by Christophe

[Christophe]

Hey, hey!! I'm here!!

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

The Gyeongeuy-line railroad Munsan - Gaesong inteconnection projet.

In fact, seen from the South, everything is ready for the reunification. This line goes from Seoul to Pyongyang and is ready in its South part. A brand new train station is operational at Dorasan, the last stop before the demarkation line. I'll post photos of it later.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Detail.

You can clearly see where the DMZ is : the black line between the two lines of barbed-wires.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe ? ChR Collection

[Christophe]

The Mangbaedan Afar Altar.

It is here that the dispersed family members who left their hometown in North Korea are praying for re-unification.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

Edited December 25, 2005 by Christophe

[Bob Hunter]

Thanks again, Christophe. It looks like the area is being turned into another tourist's ice cream stand.

[Christophe]

Hi Bob,

There are tourists, but not so many in fact. It remains quite "authentic", I would say. Moreover, in all what I have posted until now; the access is free, as I have not entered yet in the DMZ. When entered, most of the times, photos are not allowed, except in some precise locations (the "touristic" aspect...). I'll post more...

Hope you enjoy.

Cheers.

Ch.

[Bob Hunter]

I did thanks. Some of country side still looks familiar.

[Christophe]

Really ? More to come...

Ch.

[Christophe]

Inside the DMZ

Now, we take a bus, which is mandatory to enter the DMZ, as private cars are not authorized. Your passport (you have registered yourself several days in advance) is controlled at a checkpoint, and you are not any more allowed to take pictures, except in the points where it is mentioned as allowed. In the bus is a "commentator / tour operator" who describes what you see in a very "propaganda style" manner . This "commentator" is also there for checking you respect regulations : no photos, yellow lines not to cross...

You enter the DMZ through a network of checkoints, chicanes, barbed wires fences... and firstly cross a bridge in slaloming between chicanes.

After this first "test", the road to follow will be more straight : you just follow the road... sometimes between very close mined areas (explicit labels along the road).

The pic taken here shows a defense obstacle. You see them just at the fringe of the DMZ, before entering it.

A kind of huge concrete bridge full of all types material (explosives, stones, concrete... what I have been said) in its upper part. If the North troups are on the way, the South has just the time to make it "open" and dump its content on the road, blocking it!! I have seen several of these bridges...

Sorry for the quality of the pic... but it is a "stolen" one.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

Edited December 26, 2005 by Christophe

[Christophe]

The 3rd Tunnel

This tunnel was discovered on 17 October 1978. It is located 52km from Seoul.

South Korea has in total discovered 4 tunnels leading from the North to the South. They are named according to the order they were found.

The 3rd tunnel is the closest to Seoul leading South Koreans think it was built for the purpose of invading Seoul. Approximately 10,000 soldiers can move through this tunnel in one hour.

Photos were allowed only at the parking lot of the 3rd tunnel. Entering the tunnel, pictures were forbidden.

Here is the entrance of the 3rd tunnel. On the pic, the entrance is in green, where the tunnel begins going under.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

Edited December 26, 2005 by Christophe

[Christophe]

The entrance seen from the parking lot.

The building of the previous pic is on the right. The entrance of the "green "tunnel" is clearly visible, going underground... just behind the soft drinks machines .

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

Edited December 26, 2005 by Christophe

[Christophe]

The 3rd Tunnel.

It is possible entering either by foot (what I did, with a safety helmet), or by taking a small monorail down to about the middle of the tunnel. By foot you can walk until the frontier (demarkation line) which is sealed, and permanently guarded.

Ch.

Pic : Korea Tourism Organization.

Edited December 26, 2005 by Christophe

[Christophe]

Monument for the unification of Korea (site of the 3rd Tunnel).

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Mt. Dora Observation Platform.

This Observatory is located nearby the 3rd Tunnel.

It is the place where you can see the most possible of North Korea.

From this observation platform, North Korean military personnel are visible, and so are the city of Gaeseong (now a free economic zone) and the Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains. The two civilian villages at Panmunjeom are clearly visibles, as are the two giant flag poles.

Inside is a big animated map of the area, and you have to follow a briefing of the South Korea Army.

Outside, with goggles for more details, you can see North Korea. You can see the platform goggle on tle left of the pic.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

[Christophe]

North Korea

View from the Mt Dora Observatory.

From left to right :

* Gaesong economic free zone (extreme left), where intensive building works of new factories currently take place. Located in North Korea, but financed by the South.

* Demarkation Line.

* North Korean "Propaganda Village" of Kijong-Dong, with its 160m high flagpole bearing the North Korean flag.

* South Korean "Freedom Village" of Taesong-Dong, with its 100m high flagpole.

From this pic, all these are not so evident to see. But in real, you see them quite well. I even saw farmers in North Korean fields.

I'll post more detailed pics later.

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection

[Christophe]

Demarkation Line.

This pic, as the previous one, has been taken without previous authorization. The guard permitted me to keep it...

Ch.

Pic : ? Christophe - ChR Collection