StephenLawson

Greetings all; I just added the Jasta and Jagdgeschwader Files to my website. These are the combat logs, rosters and airfield locations for each of the 81 German army fighter units in the 1914 -1918 air war. My Webpage

Greetings all I have added a rare kit sale category to my website. Have plans to add more. Again just WWI topics...so far. http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/

I build on contract for others as well as for myself. My field is WWI avaition but just last year I finished an LST for a fellow...his dad's ship. Have done some other era machines and figures on contract too.

I can agree with that as well. If you know what your talking about provide a simple reference for everyone to get a look at. Also, don't worry about no having enough time at work. Things are not going to ever get back to the quiet easy days we once knew. Can't get to retirement quick enough. Just 3 years to be eligible. For honest cutthroat critiques the IPMS local model clubs have always been the best forum. On the shows I'll keep you posted.

Michael; Always a pleasure. Is that lilacs I smell?

Greetings all; In in the past several have pronounced the dangers thereof. While I fully admit to having it there are those who's high caliber modeling skills are self-evident of the affliction. One fine modeler that comes to mind is the master builder Ken Foran. In a recent e-mail to me he mentioned that the reason he went to scratchbuilding in brass was that he was tired of the "crap" that is sold as scale in kits. Looking at his fine works on the WWI Modelers Page I realize that I too could aspire to such works...with the right tools. But I am loth to spend a whole year on just one kit without working on others and completing them within a reasonable time space. The point is that there is room at the contest table for everyone. The builder, the detailer, the superdetailer, the scratchbuilder. Multilevels in this hobby assure that everyone has a place. There are merits to the clean simple basic build (as evidenced by the preference of these in many contest winners categories) and to the fine masterful work of say, Mr. Lance Krieg ( a Mike Fritz awardee.) The "most memorable build and dioramas" thread gives us all a taste of what other builders are doing in other parts of the world. Most of the time imitating the finer merits of these builds helps the build gain new insights as how he / she can excel. The whole reason for the "Military Modeling" title is to learn and excel. Mastering techniques like dry brushing to bring out "existing molded in details" for instance. Learning to put down just enough paint to give the right effect. Realizing that the whole reason for putty is to level a surface or union in preparation for painting. The whole purpose to sanding is to level a surface or union in preparation for painting. Learning to build a model that you the builder is acceptable. Comparing the kits you built as a kid to the ones you build today and asking the question...what could I do to improve? Don't let anyone tell you that you should not try to do any better or that you should be satisfied with their opinions. Also understand that if you post something and ask for an honest assessment be warned you just may get it. Though I prefer to do it in personal messages first then bring it to open discussion if there's anything that everyone might benefit from it. Others have differing approaches. It seems the general attitude here is to encourage all builds and criticisms are downplayed to help the neophyte learn to walk rather than crawl. This is a good practice and keeps unwarranted critics out of the picture. When one is ready for meat then the milk dries up. Though occassionally you will find yourself stepping back from the detailed builds and doing something simple to keep fun in your hobby. He have that luxury and its one we all should not shut out of the hobby room or brush into the dust bin. Just my opinion

Greetings all; Since many of the modelers are armor fans I'll include a weblink to a site that caters to them (and others.) It begabn as a site dedicated to just armor but has grown into other areas. I do a bit of helping in the Air Wing section. Armorama.com

Well the next one is out #8132. It looks like early and late built Fokker Schwerin /Gorries examples. I'm glad to see Eduard taking the road least traveled when it comes to marking schemes. Eduard kit 8132

Greetings Panzerman; I remember seeing a forced perspective dio at the 2000 IPMS Nats in Dallas. It was a German U-boat (large scale water line version ...maybe scratchbuilt. ) on the surface of the choppy North Atlantic with the gun crew firing at a RAF PBY Catalina (1/44th scale.) The PBY had one prop windmilling. Very cool dio. Other than the U-boats stuff on the History channel thats about it. I maybe wrong but the "Atlantic" versions were the wolfpack types (1942-3) that went after convoys? Not sure about that. Christmas was good to me. All 1/48 scale. Several Limited editions Eduard Fokker D.VII, Albatros D.Va, Nieuport 17 and etc. And I got my computer upgrades. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

Greetings all; Here is a Christmas present. Just about everything anybody could possibly want to know about WW II aircraft, armament, tactics, pix, battle damage, etc, etc, etc. http://prodocs.netfirms.com/

Greetings all; I picked up this DML Fokker Dr.I in trade. When I was finally able to crack the box I found that many of the kit parts were missing. I had to replace the interior, engine, cowling, propeller, wheels, guns, landing gear and decals from my spare parts box. I am now retouching the propeller to clean up the laminations and add more wood grain. Here is what I had to use. Interior = scratchbuilt.and spares from box. I also used a Copper State models seated pilot. Cowling and Engine = uni-part from the Aerobase kit. Propeller = DML spare. Prop boss = Roden item skinned from a Fokker D.VII kit item. Wheels = Eduard Albatros D.V items. Guns = Eduard Albatros D.V items. Ammo feeds= Blue Max white metal. Empty belt chutes = Special Hobby Pfalz D.XII items. Landing gear = Aeroclub = extruded brass "STRUTZ" Rigging wire = Detail assoc. stainless steel. Decals = Aeromaster, spare DML, Blue Max. "A Strictly hypothetical scheme." It was made to look like a machine that had been through several owners. We know that Jasta 18 had at least two Fokker Dr.I types in the spring / summer 1918. One airframe is unaccounted for. The unit markings were red wings and forward fuselage. White rear fuselage and tail unit. Here after transferring to another unit or units black striping was added and the early crosses overpainted. It will be a back ground item in a pending diorama. Heavily stained like some of the Jasta 12 Dr.I types turned in in August - September 1918.

Greetings all; Here are a few of my favorite links; The Aerodrome WWI modeler.com WWI modelers page My site

Greetings all; On the subject of Lozenge (hex shaped) German Camouflage. There are two type 4 & 5 colour. The best examples of this are from Eagle Strike. Though I don't get any kickbacks I did help in the design of these 1/72 & 1/48 scale sets. There were actually about 4 of us that had input and I think that they are the best you can get today. Colours are right, easy to use. They turn out right and for me thats what counts. Click here for Eagle Strike As for figures in 1/48 try Copper State Models & JP productions. There is a range in production from Microsculpt but they are not out yet. Here for Copper State Models

Here is my 1/48 version of the Fok. Dr. I 144/17 after capture in Jan. 1918. It was put on display with other captured German birds in the Agricultural Hall at Ilsington.

Hello Bob; It depends on how much I decide to do to the cockpit & engine areas and then there is the rigging. The finish is important but I can say it takes anywhere from 15 - 25 hours to do an average kit. The easiest are usually The Fokker D & Dr. I types. Minimal rigging. But the examples below took me about 30+ hrs. This is my 1/48 version of Voss' Fok. F.I preproduction Triplane.

Greetings all; This is my bench in about 2000. The only difference now is there are more in the stash and the Light is black and mounted to the table top. Originating from a fellow modelers site see;http://us-aircraft.com/

Greetings all; here is a bit of fun. The following thread was the originated when I began building my website I found years worth of old builds and put them in a running post. It seems to have become a bit of a bookmark for some wingnuts. Enjoy!Rumaging through some old files...

Hey Jim, we have too much road behind us to change now just don't call me late for dinner. Don't let him fool ya folks he is killa - dilla with a polaroid. Model On!

Greetings all; For those of you interested in the subject I did a write up typical of my own website but I offered ti to armorama.com. They did a special feature on in it. I hope you find it useful. click here.

The information herein has been gathered by practical application of trial and error (and lots of it.) While applicable to most modeling scenarios it is case specific to Wingnuts. 1.) Every modeler's desk comes with a black hole beneath it, that swallows parts. Only on rare occasions does it see fit to spew one back at you. a.) Only the highly scratchbuilt parts or ones that have no replacements will fall into this black hole b.) The probability of dropping a part is inversely proportional to the size of the part. c.) The closer the match of a part and the floor, the greater the probability of dropping the part. d.) A dropped part will bounce to the most inaccessible area of the room. (this also allows you to mark the boundaries of your black hole. (Note:A dropped X-acto knife will visit your foot before obeying d.) e.) As soon as you quit looking for the missing part you will probably step on it. 2.) The time it takes to build a kit is in direct proportion to the amount of reference material used and often impedes further builds. a.) The more unbuilt kits you have on the shelves the fewer kits you actually build. b.) Unbuilt kits expand to fill available space. c.) Reference materials expand beyond available space. d.) The more second source reference materials(published by non-modelers) adds confusion, not clarification. The solution here is to choose a 'school of thought' from informed sources. 3.) No matter what the size of your modeling desk is, 99.9% of all your modeling will be done in the 5 square inches of the center front edge. 4.) Dollar for dollar and pound sterling for pound sterling the absolute best value is a figure of a seated pilot. Simply put 'it fills the hole' where some modelers would rather replace aircraft cockpit details (because their too 'Fiddly' or wind up in the 'Black Hole') with a pilot figure. 5.) No matter what your method of sealing your paint bottles it will go bad two days before your intended project. 6.) The amount you pay for a new paint brush is directly proportionate to the probability that you will inadvertently dip it in your coffee or a blob of super glue or both. 7.) What ever you purchase for your hobby will go on sale a week later. 8.) All manufacturers hold their releases until they are absolutely sure that you just spent six months scratch-building your version. a.) There is 'NO' such thing as a perfect kit. b.) Half built vacuform kits impress people with your skill. c.) A completed Vacuform just looks like another model. 9.) There is no substitute for a well oiled Dremel motor tool. 10.) Humbrol paint will always be the best paint in the sorriest container. 11.) X-acto scars on your fingers are a given. Learn to live with them. 12.) Sooner or later you should buy an airbrush. The simpler the better. 13.) Half of the washes you apply will be done on the areas of your paint scheme that are not dry yet. But you'll do it anyway just to be sure. 14.) Lacquer thinner odors can be smelled by your family members from the basement through a solid core door. 15.) If you find something you like, buy a lifetime supply. Because they'll quit making it just to spite you. 16.) The kit instructions, may be very interesting, but are 95 % of the time irrelevant. 17.) Tossing a finished, expensive model kit against the furthest wall in your basement at 90mph is the most sincerest form of self-criticism. But doesn't live up to the acclaimed rush that is supposed to follow. 18.) You will NEVER get all those models built! 19.) The probability of finding an error in a built model increases exponentially after you've entered it in a contest. a.) The more important the contest the greater the error. And now a pop quiz what is the 'Theorem of Progression' ? The question was; what is the Theorem of Progression ? Much like the events that cause a stooge that falls from a flag pole mounted outside a window of a 17 story building the 'progression develops' thus.1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it. 2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released. And they will label it a main production variant. 3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble. 4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify and streamline their processes.) 5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work or sell your mint condition, unbuilt kit for 1000% profit on e-bay. 6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws. Next Pop quiz what is 'The Law of Finite Differences'? Specifically the 'Law of Finite Differences' in modeling says that 'In most people's minds, the line between being different and being weird is thin and easily crossed. Also note that no one of your family or friends will ever take you seriously until you make money at this. Then its no longer a hobby. Now you have two jobs and no way to relieve the added stress. (The corollary is ?don?t take yourself too seriously about your hobby. Enjoy it.) Next Pop Quiz: What is ?The Thick Thumb Theorem' The 'Thick Thumb Theorem' states that 'the difficulty in reaching a seam union, (so to sand smooth said seam) is directly proportionate to the mismatch of the parts by both the manufacturer's desire for simplicity and the resultant attempt of the modeler to do it right.' Hence the reason we all tend to feel like a Rhino glueing petals on a rose at times. Next Pop Quiz: What is the unofficial Rules for Parliamentary Procedures and Monthly Club Meetings' for any Modeling Club? 1.) If it doesn't matter, it does not matter!!! (The Corollary: However it will take up most of the meeting to discuss. This applies specifically to grudges against other modelers, clubs or contest Committees a.) All modeling clubs are part of the one community, if you want to bicker with another club about something that happened five years ago, shouldn't you be doing somewhere else? b.) All modeling clubs are part of the wider community, take the hobby to the community where you can and it will grow; 2.) All models are made equal. It?s the effort and the enjoyment that counts not the detail; 3.) Whatever you want to say, its okay, we all want to hear it; a.) The number of prizes you have collected does not make you an expert; b.) Sharing is important; everyone wants to learn what everyone knows; c.) Its okay to be wrong; mistakes help you learn; d.) A smart-aleck criticism can be devastating; if you can't be constructive, what are you doing here?) e.)A model is a model is a model. It is not a replica aircraft. f.) If I can't see your details, how can I admire them? g.) Being the ?Club President? five years running does not make you a better modeler. I just means that either the club respects you or they all have lives other than modeling. h.) Contrary to popular belief, beer does not make for better meetings, only drunken ones; i.) LISTEN YOU MAY HEAR SOMETHING! j.) A motion to adjourn to the nearest coffee shop and or restaurant is always in order. There, disagreement may be dealt with directly in the adjoining parking lot. Quite possibly under the watchful eye of the local constabulary Now for the Final Test of the Laws of Modeling 101. For those of you who joined us late I suggest some cramming with flash cards. The answer must include elements of the entire course. To be specific even elements of the previous contributions from the class may be used in your answer. These will be limited to one sentence only and must be complete thoughts. Here it is: according to the material dealt with in this course. What makes a satisfying scale model? 'What make a satisfying model is the attitude of the Modeler.'

Thanks Panzerman; We both have come a long way since those early days. Let me add to the forum this comment that my builds are meant to inspire you and I'll be glad to share any information on the subject that I can. With a bit of patience anyone can build a fine model.

As additional information He says "the bravery medal and it definitely was the Franz Joseph medal."

Here is my build of the Roden 1/48 Nieu. 28 in the Glancoe kit decals. This is the kit I added the Part of Poland interior to and cutaway part of the fuselage to see the finished work. Later I went back and added black to the wing strut tips.

Here is my build of the Roden 1/48 Nieu. 28 in the Glancoe kit decals. This machine was repro-ed for the USAF Museum as a 95th Aero bird. But we have an image of it in a 27th Aero line up. The kicking mule seems to be absent and possibly over painted. The theory is that was the mount of Major Harold Hartney commander at this time of the 27th Aero. This is the kit I added the Part of Poland interior to and cutaway part of the fuselage to see the finished work. Later I went back and added black to the wing strut tips

Sincerest thanks Rick Research; I may post this off to the individual in question tonight. Panzerman speaks very highly of you. Glad to hear from you. StephenLawson