WWI stick grenade ID help

[Tony]

Hello,

I have the three tin cans pictured below and each one is different.

1. No. 3 has four rivets in the base, the others do not

2. The base of No. 1 is totally different in appearance to that of Nos. 2 and 3

3. The inner diameter of the screw thread for No. 1 is 39.8 mm, No. 2 is 36.6 mm (rusty) and 3 is 38.6 mm

4. the stick stamped M.O.A. is slightly different in appearance than the one stamped HNB but both have a thread diameter of 37.7 mm (give or take a bit).

5. All three have different length hooks

6. The lid on No. 2 is different to those on Nos. 1 and 3

Are there any explanations to this? We all know how Germans love making rules and regulations (no offence meant to any German Beamte reading this).

Modifications? Different makers? Different years of manufacture? Is this too technical and something I shouldn?t really worry about?

Tony

[Daniel Murphy]

Tony,

I will do my best.

1. Manufacturers variances. Riveted vs. spot welding. A different way of getting the same job done and not a different model.

2. The can at the bottom and right are first pattern 1915 style. The other one is a later 1915/1916 type. On the first pattern the cans were welded and they experienced a number of failures to detonate. The second type has two prongs than can be bent up and the top removed so that if the grenade is recovered, another exposive charge and fuse can be inserted and the grenade reused.

3. Since the grenades were shipped with the handles already inserted, there was no real need for them to be interchangable. It was a disposable one use item anyway.

4. MOA and HNB were the makers initials. The handle machining variations are not unusual and made no difference to the functioning of the piece, so no big deal as far as the army was concerned. They only cared that it worked.

5. Manufacturer variations again.

6. See #2. above

7. I have six different ones and even I never examined them that close.

Are there any explanations to this? We all know how Germans love making rules and regulations (no offence meant to any German Beamte reading this).

Modifications? Different makers? Different years of manufacture? Is this too technical and something I shouldn?t really worry about?

Yes. All of the above.

Dan

[Tony]

Thanks Dan,

I think I'll give up looking for a stick/can that fits the thread.

Tony

[Daniel Murphy]

I think I'll give up looking for a stick/can that fits the thread.

I have seen several loose sticks on the market over the years, but they were all for the 1917 pattern grenade. I doubt one would fit this early head. The other possibility is to have someone craft you a handle on a lathe from the dimensions of one of your other handles. If you know a local woodworker, they may be able to help you out from a scrap of leftover wood. Complete relic screw cap assemblies are found quite often and you may be able to get one for a handle very reasonably.

Dan

[Tony]

I have seen several loose sticks on the market over the years, but they were all for the 1917 pattern grenade. I doubt one would fit this early head. The other possibility is to have someone craft you a handle on a lathe from the dimensions of one of your other handles. If you know a local woodworker, they may be able to help you out from a scrap of leftover wood. Complete relic screw cap assemblies are found quite often and you may be able to get one for a handle very reasonably.

Dan

Dan,

I've seen just the opposite, plenty of sticks (well a few each year), but have only once seen complete screw cap assemblies. They were being sold by a Belgian in England and I only bought 1 .

Tony

[JensF.]

Are you interested in a repro stick for WW1 stick grenades?

[Tony]

Are you interested in a repro stick for WW1 stick grenades?

Jens,

I'd be interested in the threaded assembly if you know where to get them.

Tony

[JensF.]

Unfortunately no. Only the wood...