paja Posted March 24, 2014 Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Most of the text and some of the photos that I plan to use in this topic are from the following link http://www.mfa.gov.rs/en/diplomatic-tradition/diplomatic-consular-suits which Piramida was kind enough to share with us (Photos are from the book "Official Dress in Serbia"). "The first preserved regulations related to the obligation of wearing official suits in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and of wearing uniforms in the diplomatic-consular missions abroad originate from 1931. ... The Rules Relating to the Making and Wearing of Diplomatic-Consular Uniforms abroad provided for four types of uniform according to the category of diplomatic agents. I category - Ministers (Legates) Extraordinary and Ministers Plenipotentiary, II category - Counselors and Consul Generals, III category - First Secretaries and Consuls IV category - Secretaries, Vice-Consuls and Clerks." Edited March 24, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Uniform of the I Category - Ministers (Legates) Extraordinary and Ministers Plenipotentiary TAILCOAT: Made of dark blue wool material with one-row buttoning with 7 gold buttons having state coat of arms on them. Trains embroidered with decorative flower pattern of lily edged with gold ribbon. COLLAR: Upright, made of dark red velvet, embroidered with pattern of palm branches and lily flower, edged with gold braid. BREAST: Embroidered with upright palm branches and flower pattern of lily and edged with gold braid. LOWER PART OF SLEEVE: Made of dark red velvet, embroidered with pattern of lily flower and palm branches, edged with gold braid. SMALL PART OF THE BACK: Embroidery consisting of palm branches intertwined with pattern of lily flower. POCKET FLAPS: Embroidery of horizontal palm branches and lily flowers (I and II category uniforms), with slantingly cut edges: the part right above the pocket formed of two semi-circles. Edged with gold braid from three sides. TROUSERS: Made of dark blue wool material with double gold trimmings four centimeters wide. There was also a longer, dark red decorative part between the trimmings and the heel. SWORD: Flat cutting edge, scabbard made of black leather; suspended on a gold embroidered piece of cloth up to one-fifth of the sword. Gold-plated hilt, the handle made of white mother-of-pearl with the crown on the top; state coat of arms on a plate at the bottom. HAT: Black, two-pointed, made of silk felt. White ostrich feathers on top and tricolor state emblem; three gold braids on the right-hand side. CAPE: Made of dark blue wool material with a dark blue velvet collar. GLOVES: White, glace (glazed) SHOES: High shoes made of patent leather, without trimmings. http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-14582400-1395690099.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-41354800-1395690106.jpg (Source: http://politikin-zabavnik.rs/pz/tekstovi/stih-u-fraku Very interesting text in Serbian about our famous writers who were diplomats as well). Edited March 25, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Uniform that belonged to Serbian Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andrić (Иво Андрић). Edited March 24, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Uniform of the II Category - Counselors and Consul Generals TAILCOAT: Material, colour and style, the same as for the I Category. Trains edged with gold braid. COLLAR: Embroidery consisting of palm branches intertwined with pattern of lily flowers. Embroidery covers two-thirds of the collar. The collar is edged with braid. BREAST: Embroidery consisting only of lily flower pattern. Edged with gold braid. SMALL PART OF THE BACK: Embroidery of palm branches and lily flower pattern. LOWER PART OF SLEEVE: Made of dark red velvet, embroidered with lily flower pattern and palm branches, edged with gold braid. POCKET FLAPS: The same as for the uniform of the I Category. TROUSERS: Wool material, the same colour as that of the tailcoat. Double trimmings three centimeters wide. There was also a longer, dark red decorative part between the trimmings and the heel. HAT: Black, two-pointed, with black ostrich feathers on top; tricolor state emblem and two gold braids on the right-hand side. SWORD: The same as for the uniform of the I Category, with a string without embroidery. The cape gloves and shoes the same as for the I Category. (Image source: http://ww.novosti.co.rs/dodatni_sadrzaj/foto.110.html?galleryId=1812&offset=24 ) Edited March 25, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 Photos from the exhibition "Hidden treasure from the Home of Jevrem Grujić" (Скривенo благo Дома Јеврема Грујића). More can be found in this topic: http://gmic.co.uk/index.php/topic/57613-decorations-from-the-collections-of-the-serbian-museums/?p=584840 http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-78526500-1395692159.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-16437600-1395692175.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-92656600-1395692184.jpg
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 Uniform that belonged to Pavle Beljanski (Павле Бељански). http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-91816700-1395692847.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-98555100-1395692866.jpg
paja Posted March 24, 2014 Author Posted March 24, 2014 Beljanski with the staff of the Embassy in Rome and guests (1937). II, III and IV Category uniforms http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-92250900-1395693144.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-64148400-1395693157.jpg
Trooper_D Posted March 24, 2014 Posted March 24, 2014 You've been very busy, Paja! I shall give this thread a close reading when I have a bit more time. One quick question: were these uniforms made in Serbia/Yugoslavia and, if so, do you know the tailor or tailors who had the skills to produce them? As far as the UK is concerned, today only one or two tailors still make diplomatic uniforms - perhaps the best is Henry Poole & Co who also make court dress,https://henrypoole.com/livery/
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) "Official Dress in Serbia" contains an example of a XIX century uniform made by Moritz Tiller & Co. Wien. Tailor Franc Kunić from Vienna as well is mentioned in the same source. Apart from that I have no other information... Edited March 25, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 Uniform of the III Category - First Secretaries and Consuls TAILCOAT: No embroidery on the breast or on pocket flaps. Trousers, hat, sword, cape, gloves and shoes the same as for the uniform of the II Category.
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 Uniform of the IV Category - Secretaries, Vice-Consuls and Clerks TAILCOAT: No embroidery on the breast or on pocket flaps. COLLAR: Embroidery of palm branches and lily flower pattern. One-third of the collar edged with gold braid. LOWER PART OF SLEEVES: Embroidery consisting of a small palm branch with lily flower pattern in the corner. SMALL PART OF THE BACK: Embroidery consisting of a small palm branch and lily flower pattern in the corner. BREAST AND TRAINS: Edged with gold braid only. Trousers, hat, sword, cape, gloves and shoes, the same as for the uniform of the II Category.
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) IV Category. Edited March 25, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 Details. http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-89320600-1395770566.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-81326200-1395770576.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-09060500-1395770584.jpg
Trooper_D Posted March 25, 2014 Posted March 25, 2014 "Official Dress in Serbia" contains an example of a XIX century uniform made by Moritz Tiller & Co. Wien. ... and also of Belgrade (see attached). I had forgotten I had this in my collection until I reread this thread. btw can you tell me what the invoice is for, please?
paja Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) Next to the stamp is written "for mister Jovan Veljković, retired colonel". Bellow "for mister Stojan" (underlined) and under that "Jacket, Suit". Interesting document, thanks for sharing it. Edited March 25, 2014 by paja
Trooper_D Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) Next to the stamp is written "for mister Jovan Veljković, retired colonel". Bellow "for mister Stojan" (underlined) and under that "Jacket, Suit". Interesting document, thanks for sharing it. Thanks for this, Paja.I was hoping it might be for some items of uniform however, as it is associated with a retired officer, I suppose I can still consider it 'militaria' Edited March 26, 2014 by Trooper_D
paja Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) Don't mention it 1879 tailcoat, belonged to Milosav Protić (Милосав Протић). http://www.politika.rs/rubrike/kultura-i-zabava/Uniforme--od-Karadjordja-do-Tita.sr.html Edited March 30, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 Milan Kujundžić Aberdar (Милан Кујунџић Абердар), 1882.
paja Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) Stojan Novaković (Стојан Новаковић), 1898. http://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-70387800-1396177887.jpghttp://gmic.co.uk/uploads/monthly_03_2014/post-7937-0-18832400-1396177899.jpg Edited March 30, 2014 by paja
paja Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 Čedomilj Mijatović (Чедомиљ Мијатовић), 1890.
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