Spasm

Been working on this one. Received from the other side of the pond a couple of weeks ago. It's an American front seam, swivel bales, stainless rimmed M1 made by Schlueter as it has an impressed S inside the front. The batch number is 303. Found years and years ago on a Peleliu beach and stored in a garage until bought by a dealer. Was in a bit of a state but cleaned preserved and painted.

Didn't really like the cufftitle on the Kursk helmet so I've changed it. Much better Put a few kill stripes on the barrel as well.

Here's both sides of the finished helmet. It was to commemorate the Ostmedialle (you can just make out the medal details on the front and rear of the helmet) so a build up from dark at the bottom to white at the top so as to appear that the helmet was actually frozen didn't come out too bad. Hopefully the owner likes it.

Then it's just a matter of painting on the designs and another layer of protection. And trying to get the finished look ok across the whole of the helmet so it all blends in. Lots of airbrushing, blending and use of colour to build up the look while maintaining a strong image on the decals and designs. Takes ages (this one isn't too difficult as it's mostly grey/blue/green/white mixes but some helmets using field greens can take forever to get the look just right).

The masking is removed. Edges are sanded down and the overall helmet is sanded, scuffed, rubbed etc to get the finish wanted (I have to hold myself back on this as I have been known to get a bit carried away at this stage and totally overdo it, less is more here). Then apply a base thin dark coat to flow and stay in the holes, scratches etc that will show through the lighter top coats. This first coat needs to be very dark, no point in playing with feldgrau or greens here.

Then, depending on the final design and appearance wanted, I draw on the designs of helmet decals (I don't apply any bought stickers,transfers or decals - all are drawn and painted to the actual sizes of decals) and pictures. Mask those off and apply a rough finish to the helmet (again depends on the helmet and final look that's required)

The helmet is then sanded down to metal and any holes filled as in the first picture. Sanded down again to the finish required, note how I've left most of the rust indents to keep the aged look. Then several coats of rust protection is applied both inside and out. Then a primer coat is applied, resanded and reprimed where needed.

Mervyn Thanks again for that, looking forward to see what you send. No rush, I've a few things lined up to get on with. No worries on the rust or the can of spray, my helmets don't get the rattle can treatment as They need to be protected and look as original as possible so that they can live on a bit. Some buyers have been surprised that I totally redo the whole thing and build/paint in the old used and worn look complete with overpainting, paint chips, rust and a kicked around look (which isn't done by kicking it around - I wish it was). Actually, the overall finish of the helmets take a lot longer than the applied designs. For those that may be interested here's what a helmet goes through once it's been cleaned (that normally takes a large screwdriver to remove an inch of Normandy/Begium/Latvian/Italian/Far Eastern mud and rusted in roots and parts of liners). I carefully check for any remains of decals on the helmets. If there are any (I've only found one so far) they are preserved and kept within the overall design. Then an hour or so of rust removal with a lot of mess to clear up afterwards. Along with varying sizes of plasters to stick on fingers. I then am happy to end up with something like this: This one is an M42 that came to me covered in some sort of bitumen and had been used as a bucket on a farm. Plenty of chemicals used to get off (paint stripper) and plenty of elbow grease and censored language that had the neighbours commenting. No real large holes though so no need for glass fibre and resin fills that the holey ones have to have. Sometimes I leave the holes to aid the old and used look I'm looking for.

Rear with burning on horizon and cufftitle. By the way, Nick, the picture loading is well sorted now. Good job.

Another one, just finished. Kursk colours with Tiger from Grossdeutchland.

Paul Blimey, and it took me ages to find that out. Yes, a recast by a company called Lorioli (still around today but not doing this sort of stuff I beleive), probably from the 50s or 60s I was told. It's a nice thing though, really thick and heavy. Something else the kids can fight over and then discover it's worth a fiver Must go off to find the music. No idea on yours though, sorry. Spaz

Paul How fascinating. A copy that isn't even close but must have taken effort and a great amount of time to produce. Try www.coincommunity.com and put your pictures into the enquiry section. I've done this before and they've been most helpful. I didn't have any clue for this but they were very helpful. Let us know what you find out

Deleted, sorry it's a Gentlemen's forum

Betcha this bloke would give you more than 100 quid for it. This is him visiting Barry railway (he's a bit of a train spotter - got his spotting book in his hand)

Mervyn Water Bottle will be kept on the shelf awaiting winner, or second, or whomsoever. You never know, that SA one may become one. Tobruk, El Alamein, Kasserine, Eighth Army, I need to do some research. Will PM address. Thanks Mervyn and All. I hope whoever gets the bottle enjoys it. Fame at last This time next year...... Spaz

Don is correct. The eagle would have been part of an SA collar tab. The RZM number - M1/17 is a quality check. M1 being for metal badges (M4 for belt buckles, M7 for daggers etc). The 17 is for the manufacturer, in this case F.W. Assmann & Sohne of Ludenscheid. I wouldn't have thought this was a copy as these wouldn't sell particularly well on their own - they'd be attached to a tab. Unless, of course, it broke while attaching. The thing to try is if it is easy to bend, if it bends easily between your fingers then it is a copy. Original eagles of this time were very well made and generally very strong. Collar tab eagle and cap eagle below. The collar tab eagle is 'off' at an angle rather than straight. - Sorry John, you posted while I was writing

And the last few - bored yet?

And

A few more that have already been sold (maybe you bought it). There's a lot of swasikas and runes missing as they are not allowed on ebay.

An absolutely fantastic little 'gem'. Just look at the engraving, stunning. Could you get something like that produced today? I doubt it, and if you could it would be so expensive it wouldn't be given as a leaving present from a company in Barry. Everything is shut in Barry now.

Frank Thanks again for that. I only use repro helmets or relics that would probably rust away in someones shed. Hopefully the artwork will keep them alive for a bit longer in someones collection. They sell for miles less than an original so they are a cheap way to get something sort of authentic. I usually get around £70 - £100 for each one, not a lot considering the time spent but I enjoy the practise and they are getting better. The money goes into my militaria fund Just got hold of an M1 American that was picked up on Peliliu beach about 20 years ago. That's gonna get some serious art on it. This is how they usually look when I've cleaned them prior to filling, sanding, etc etc. I'm glad you enjoy them

They tend to start piling up on the shelf - keeps her happy

Mervyn Well spotted and thanks. The pawprint is 'round the corner' on the bottle so you wouldn't have seen it. Good idea for the prize - how about I donate the water bottle? Here's a couple of other things that have kept me occupied

Hanged two weeks before the Americans liberated the camp he was in. A hero, I think, in saving so many lives. What great things to look after.

Gents and Gentesses A couple of things I've been working on lately, thought I'd show before they go. Crashed part of a Focke-Wulf 189A, an M16 helmet and a water bottle found in Flanders (with part of the M35 helmet I'm working on now).