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    How to stop rust in EK?


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    Ayup. Was turned onto it by someone in a forum long ago and far away. Been using it ever since with nary a problem. Flows into the cracks and dries....dry. I use it on guns, knives & swords, tools, bike chains, and anything else metal that needs protection and lubrication.

    I imagine you have the same problem with humidity on the Left Coast I do here in the swamp. A dab of Boshield, problem solved.

    Edited by Tom Y
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    thanks tom!

    i will get some of this boeing product and put it to good use...i recently discovered that 20-30 eks i had in storage suffered varying degrees of damage thanks to a malfunctioning sprinkler system...basically one riker board...just glad it wasn't ALL of them.

    cheers!

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    thanks tom!

    i will get some of this boeing product and put it to good use...i recently discovered that 20-30 eks i had in storage suffered varying degrees of damage thanks to a malfunctioning sprinkler system...basically one riker board...just glad it wasn't ALL of them.

    cheers!

    Ewww :(

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    Hello

    I see that the website Tom directed us to doesn't sell this outside of the USA. Is this anything like WD40? Or do any UK members know if this Boshield T-9 or an equivalent is available over here?

    Thanks

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    david,

    perhaps you could ask for the product (or a comparable substance) at a local motorcycle parts shop or a marine repair shop.

    i think i once read that the application of WD40 on crosses is a bad idea--it doesn't dry, and can damage the finish (or remaining finish) on a core.

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    Is this anything like WD40?

    Unequivocally NO WD40 is a kerosene based product which loosens rust , never dries, and most important, deteriorates paint. You don't want to loosen or remove rust, just stabilize it.

    Bicycle shops sell a chain lube that is very similar to T-9.

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    • 5 weeks later...

    hiya, kids!

    i finally got ahold of some Boshield. it's time for me to experiment, and i figured it would be nice to have a visual aid for this thread.

    here is the subject: a L59-marked 1939 EK1--before the unfortunate incident, the core was blued, if i remember correctly...

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