WW1 Colors/Colours

[Chris Boonzaier]

Hi,

Am in a bit of a dilema here....

RAL 7009 is supposed to be THE WW1 coulr for Feldgrau...

But I have had a friendly local paint guy mix up a few tins...

Classic RAL 7009 (WW1 "Felgrau 2")

Then some RAL 7003 Moosgrau

And RAL 7013 Braungrau

The last 3 using some computer measuring...

Here is a chart... you just click on the numbers to see the coluur

http://www.malerhatt.ch/inhalt/ralfarbton.php?BGCOL=474238&RALTON=7013

Strangely I had no metal objects that match the 7009 closely...

The 7003 is a dead on match for mint beltbuckles... or if you have a worn one, and on the back there is still some of the "original" colour left in the stampings that has not changed by the elements...

But the 7013 was in fact the closest match... I have a couple of helmets and gasmask tins that are very, very, very close indeed....

What do you guys see as "the" WW1 paint colour?

Thanks

Chris

Unfortunatley the computer screen does not show the colour charts accurately

[Les]

Chris,

Feldgrau changed during the course of the war, so the paint colour you might want to use would depend on what time period the item was made, and whether it is going to be painted 'as new' or something that's been in use for a while.

Circa 1914, the earliest feldgrau paints were very light green, tending towards the paler shade(s). The color is lighter than early WWII era "apple green" seen on pre-war German m36 steel helmets. Some of the early feldgrau I've seen can also lean towards a very light grey, or grey/green -green/gray combination that is highly changeable depending on the available light, distance from the object, etc,

Mid--war, the color began moving towards a medium green, and later in the war, the paints begin to pick up brownish tones that look similar to olive greens, etc, Floquil's old "Pullman green" is a typical colour for mid-war feldgrau in new condition, that hasn't begun to weather or breakdown into the component colours and tints used.

Whatever it is you're about to paint, try to avoid using latex paint and focus on a flat enamel. Most of the paints used during the war contained lead to allow greater adhesion to metal, wood, ,etc, and also allowed the paint to smooth out by itself without leaving major brush marks. Paints often contained minerals mixed with turpentine to make black paints, earth tones, etc. If you want to create a naturally flat colour without using modern additives, carefully adding a very small amount of bath or baby powder does the trick very nicely. Be careful not to overdo it, and sprinkle it on a little bit at a time.

If you're using an enamel paint, darkening it with dirty motor oil helps remove the freshly painted look. Rub it on, let it set for a little bit, and wipe it off. Oil will cause the surface to shine while it's drying, however, it can be dulled down after it's dried.

[Chris Boonzaier]

Hi,

I have 1k car paint, which I assume is enamel, apparently the thing to do is mix Owatrol oil with it, is improves the flattening of the paint and provides rustproofing at the same time.

As the piece in question is 1917 i think i am going to go with the browngrey RAL7013

The lighter 7003 is as you say, mainly on early things like wooden MG boxes.

Best

Chris

[The Prussian]

Here is a list about the spectrum of colours you could use for painting models. In brackets the RAL number

Resedagrün (6011)

Farngrün (6025)

Moosgrün (6005)

Olivgrün (6003)

Flaschengrün (6007)

Grüngrau (7009)

Zementgrau (7033)

Braungrau (7013)

Umbragrau (7022)

Nußgrau (8011)

Blaßgrau (8025)

Ockergrau (8001)

Kupfergrau (8004)

Ilivbraun (8008)

Lehmbraun (8003)

Sandgelb (1002)

Gelboliv (6014)

Oxidgelb (1034)

Oxidrot (3009)