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Brian Wolfe

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Everything posted by Brian Wolfe

  1. That is very nice work, your wood shop teacher would be proud of you. I especially like the way the edged weapons stand proud of the backing material, the shadowing really brings them to life. Thanks for sharing your work not to mention your exceptional collection. Regards Brian
  2. Hello Nightbreak, Excellent tip staffs with very nice display stands. Thanks for sharing them with us. Regards Brian
  3. When I'm correct I like to be 100% correct yet when I am wrong I am usually 110% wrong! In close examination the W is in no way a W but the number 10 as you have suggested. I took for granted that it was a W based on what I was told and am embarrassed to confess that I never took a closer look. This post has turned out to be a complete revelation for me . Thank you so much for your assistance and having started this post. Regards Brian
  4. Oh, I experienced that on many an occasions, as have a lot of the members hear in the past. He used to say that I could be forgiven, being that I was a "colonial after all".😄 Thanks for the additional information on my tip staffs. It's not often such news is that good, usually an item thought rare you find out that is is actually common as dirt. Though any tip staff is worth collecting on its own merits, but Scottish and two at that. YOu have made my day. Regards Brian
  5. This is the second of the pair I received from Mervyn and I was told it was from Whitstable. There is only an inch difference in the length of the two tip staffs but due to the proximity to the cameras the closest specimen appears to be a good deal larger. There is C.W. and 14.W. in script on the staff and I have attempted to show this in one of the photos. Regards Brian
  6. I would truly like my example to be Scottish and would have no hesitation in changing the brass plaque to reflect this information. For me the issue is where this tip staff came from, being Mervyn. If was a gift and in the memory of a close friend I will probably leave it as it is. The problem arises in the possibility the this item will be "moved on" when I "move on" so-to-speak, by my heirs. I would not want to be the one to perpetuate an error in identification. Perhaps I will affix a note on the underneath the stand to reflect this new information. The topic of the police tip staff ha
  7. I do think it has been dropped at sometime in its life. The identification came directly from Mervyn and that's all I had to go by. For the most part unmarked specimens, such as this one, could be from anywhere and other than what Mervyn told me I would have been left with no "title" for the brass plate at all, perhaps "Typical British Tipstaff"? I've made the stands for these a number of years ago when my thickness planer would not produce material as thin as the one I presently use. It has always seemed a little too "robust" simply to support such a light item. At least there is no danger of
  8. An interesting bit of history, albeit a sad event. You are so correct in that we tend to collect the life stories of others. Thanks for sharing this and, in that, helping to keep his memory alive. Regards Brian
  9. I think Peter has hit on the reason for double issues, two clerks perhaps from different levels in a regiment both sending on their own list rather than a system where the lists all end up on the same desk for ordering. I think it is a case where anything can happen and usually does in India... twice. 🙃🙃 Regards Brian
  10. Oh, to have the sense of humour that Chris has; the title just screams the need for "smart" comments. 😉 Regards Brian
  11. It could very well be the same staff as all of Mervyn's collection went to auction, especially the material that was still in England; he lived in South Africa at the time of his death. A great looking item indeed, thanks for posting it. Regards Brian
  12. Thank you for your feedback, it really is appreciated. I should have added in the tutorial that taping the metal rod as it is bent around the pipe helps a lot. Nothing too hard just tapping it a little. When I decided to try this I envisioned blow torches and the hammer of Thor but when I mentioned this to a friend of mine who is really good with metal he just laughed at my exaggerated imagination. Thanks again fellows. Regards Brian
  13. When it comes to ageing steel I was at a loss and like most of us turned to YouTube. Some methods scared me somewhat. After all who doesn’t like wearing a lab coat, goggles and rubber gloves? On the other hand let’s not risk life and limb over a ring or two. This is where you can come up with some jokes on matrimony if you like. The method that looked safe involved a two stage process first using vinegar and salt. First I would suggest wearing latex gloves, just in case (especially for the second part), though this seems safe enough to me so few worries. I took any oil off the rin
  14. This shows the rings on the scabbard. You will notice that there is a space between where the ring meets itself but that is common even on original sword scabbards. Many of the original manufacturers, but not all, would braze or weld the two arms together. I chose the easier method and am happy that it is one of the original methods of attachment. This shows the sword in the scabbard back in its place in the collection. I think that the aged rings match well enough and I must say with complete lack of modesty I am quite pleased with the outcome. A word on ageing steel will f
  15. Now that you have what looks like a large spring turn the pipe on its side and get ready to make rings. If the Lord of the Rings theme music is playing in your head let me know as this may or may not be normal at this point. You can cut these “ribs” with a hack saw but I used an air tool with a very narrow disc cutter as it was faster. Now you should have some rings that look like the ones shown below. The darker ones at the top have been aged and we will talk about that later on. At this time you can test the ring opening to see if you can actually put them on the suspension devises
  16. Replacement scabbard rings It was been said by some that a sword without its proper sword knot is incomplete; I would think that is a matter for some debate. However, no matter your stand on that issue I would put forward the suggestion that a scabbard missing its suspension rings is a nearly useless object, unless you count it as simply a container for the blade. Recently I purchased a 1796 Light Cavalry Trooper’s Sabre with a steel scabbard minus the suspension rings. This didn’t really pose a problem for me as I have made a good number of “jump rings” or suspension rings for jew
  17. Reading this post brought back a lot of memories of days past and friends gone. Mervyn was a very close friend of mine and I thought I would share a tip staff with you that he gifted me from his personal collection. This particular tip staff appears in Mervyn's book, "The Policeman's Lot". page 67. Regards Brian
  18. Not that this post is intended for "double issues" but I thought I would take this opportunity to post one of mine. Back a few years ago when I was deeply interested in the medals of India and Pakistan a friend of mine,who resided in the Punjab,would find medal groups I might be interested in and would forward them to me. Many times these arrived in a package all tied together with twine just as he had found them. I would remount them and in this case mounted the extra General Service Medal with the Naga Hills clasp and marked in on the back so that these would all stay together when another c
  19. Well done Chris, excellent decision to use that backdrop for your photos. Regards Brian
  20. All of that history in one collection, well done. Regards Brian
  21. Oops. In the past when I put together a tutorial I would take all of the photos ahead of time, while this time I was "winging it" as I wrote the piece. At the end of a long day I didn't notice that I had mounted the sword incorrectly. The bracket at the grip end of the sword should have been behind the sword's langet to fully show off the bugle crest. The idea is always to show as much of the items as possible while hiding the support. I could also have trimmed the bracket on an angle to hide it even more but there are times when I have to say "enough already". Below is a photo of ho
  22. I should have mentioned earlier that you need to leave the felt that will cover the top screw on the main bracket without glue until you install the screw. Then glue the felt with a drop of glue on the top of the screw to cover it and protect the specimen. This is where I should also remind you to read all of the instructions before you start. Now all that is left is to mount your bayonet, knife, small sword etc. Mine is a Pattern 1895 Mk.II Bugler’s sword which is more the size of a large dagger. Here’s a small tip that you might not think of until it is too late. If y
  23. Before we talk about the bracket that will support the blade we should address a potential danger to the item being displayed. The danger is electrolysis. This is a chemical/electrical reaction between two pieces of metal that are in contact. Plumbing pipes made of copper, when in contact with steel brackets will start to experience corrosion due to this phenomenon and is prevented by using rubber gaskets or sleeves between the two metals. To prevent this from happening in the case of displaying metal weapons on metal brackets I always line the bracket with felt. I also do this with the woode
  24. The next step is to flatten out the bracket but not the ends where the screw holes are located. I find that gripping the bracket with the locking pliers just ahead of there “tabs” will keep them in line as you straighten out the rest of the bracket. This is important otherwise the two ends with the screw holes will not be on the same plane making installation difficult if not impossible. Next I placed the straightened out bracket on the piece of wood that in this case was ¾ of an inch thick which was exactly the same width as the edged weapon’s hand guard where it would be support
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