kasle

Textbook mid to late war Godet. Surely cleaned, but it will receive typical deep black patina (as can be seen around the catch) quite quickly.

Very nice trio, despite of bad pics.​

Soldering of the frame halves

Reverse

I like it, although it has cracked core and repair to the catch, but with these pricy purchases every other opinion is always welcomed. Obverse

EK1 sold for 4.200 € + buyers premium 23%. Hitler´s aquarell of Vienna sold for 31.000 € + premium. Now you can´t say he was a bad painter, heh.

​ Thanks, Chris. I just quoted the auction description (I hope I remember it correctly). But without paper proof, everything is just a guess.

...and I just completed this set of Godet Deutsche Ehrendenkmunze types. From left to right gilded bronze, copper, solid bronze.

My catch at last Bene Merenti auction. Godet chain of Bavarian soldier, who made from the rank of NCO (MVK1X) to captain (MVO4X).

This lot (for EK1) consists of 100 € of metal and thousands € of belief. Quite disproportion, I say.

Of course it doesn´t exist. It was my way to say I wouldn´t believe in any provenance letter anyway. Fortunately, in this case, as many times before, I am protected by the guardian angel called Shallow Pocket.

In 2010, same auction site (Hermann Historica) offered Hitler´s EK1 with provenance letter from Amy Winter. That times it was cased S-W. It got sold for 180.000 euros. Personally, I would believe only to provenance letter from Adolf Hitler. This link will help http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405722&highlight=Hitler+EK1

TR era S&L or Deumer.

It looks like NSDAP Long service Award, 3rd class. The only problem is that it should have eagle device on it. But not necessarily, as you see on first photo. Without that device, it can be Prussian Firefighters Award for 25 years of service (second photo). ' alt='' class='ipsImage' > ' alt='' class='ipsImage' >

Just as an example what is possible: This miniature had broken hook for attaching mini. The cross was attached through the eyelet, that was mounted via black thread around the button ring (first photo). Jeweler had to repair the hook in a cold process, as I refused to dismount the ribbon, which would burn during soldering. So he made a threaded hole to the button ring and the hook acted as a screw. The repair was finished with the drop of Potassium sulfid which caused the instant patina and left virtually no traces of repair work.

Looks very similar to this one: http://www.emedals.com/highlighted-offerings/europe/spain/medals/other/1925-homage-to-the-royal-family-medal-eu6503

Something I don´t see very often. Interesting ribbon rosette consisting of 1864, 1866 and 1870/71 campaign ribbons, 25 oaks in Prinzen size and some kind of regimental badge. Hardware contains safety pin and hook for attaching (probably) prinzen EK. Device is completely UV negativ (ribbons, thread, backing). Any opinions welcomed. ' alt='' class='ipsImage' > ' alt='' class='ipsImage' > ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' > ' alt='' class='ipsImage' > ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px">

I would just add, that your nice A type cross has experienced horrible repaint, Eric. Or better said, first paint over blackening. It dramatically hides the details of the crown and gives ground dug look to this quite valuable cross. I think hot air pistol would be very helpful in such case. As you see, this garage door style paint is already cracking out, so it is only question of time when it will contaminate the display (or storage) place. Gun oil or pure WD40 is better in keeping Franco-Prussian war cross from rusting. I would be also interested in seeing the reverse of the jubileum clasp - if the oaks are hollow struck and what is the position of (broken) prongs. If they were attached at the center, or from the sides.

Looking forward to see the photos for third week. ​Maybe it would be better - and quicker - to repost the pics.

Of course you´re right. Although I don´t think there is some unnecessary debate on the forum. There is always something to learn. This thread is another reason to repeat, that mark should be handled only as a supporting evidence. This is what I always say to those happy with their "O" or "C" crosses, which turn out to be textbook Godets. Ring can be just badly stamped - not necessarily replaced by forger. Every theory based on MM only, is castle of sand. Following one simple scientific rule can eliminate any confusion - every idea can be accepted only when supporting experiment is repeated three times with the same results. Translated to our language - every new variant can be accepted only after finding three identical exemplars of that kind. And, as we see, this is chain of rings with random marks.

Such thing can be really soldered back without leaving trace and even patinated. All you need is a jeweler who is experienced in repairing jewelery. When it comes to gold and silver, there is no problem. Neusilber, zinc and brass are another cup of tea. It is not harder, jewelers just haven´t tools for it, as their tools for repairing gold and silver work with different temperatures. But I still think, that this can be trap only for beginners. Cross is frame and core, not mark on the ring.

I was bidding live via internet, not on Lundstrom stuff though, but while waiting for my lots, I was observing that many things went well over estimate. Only a few lots passed. I got nice item, so I was satisfied. Thanks for letting me know about this auction, Paul.

Very nice award. Every Godet minis collector should have one too... ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px"> ' alt='' class='ipsImage' width="1000px" height="749px">

Thanks very much for the answer, Komtur.

I have a simple question to which I can´t find simple answer. When I tested ribbons under UV light in the past, it was always quick and decisive: positive ribbons are modern fakes, negative ribbons have a chance to be original. It is always useful mainly with EK ribbons, where white on modern fakes brightly glows electric blue But what to think about ribbon where white (as a basic colour of the material) doesn't glow, but red stripes glow orange? It happened with 4-piece ribbon bar, where three ribbons (EK2, Kroneorden, Zentenarmedaille) are UV negative, but the last one (Turkish war medal) gives results mentioned above. Last ribbon shows no signs of being added lately, and it is sewn with same thread as all other ribbons. All ribbons are worn same way and to me it looks that the ribbon bar has correct hardware. Same thing hapenned to me in the past with 2er ribbon bar (EK2 and Hessian Tapferkeit), which looked very convincing with both ribbons heavily worn, and with white colour on Hessian medal absolutely UV negative - just red stripes were glowing orange. That time I deemed the bar as fake and forgot about it, but now I think it is worth question. Maybe it is silly question, but what do we test under UV lamp? UV-behaviour of material or of colours on it? Thanks in advance for any opinion.