Daniel Murphy

To my knowledge, no. Not yet. Quite a few are repainted for the "wars" by French reenactors. Up until recently, the price of a nice complete adrian was fairly low. Since the good ones are creeping up to $200-$300, there is always the chance. If you have any prospective helmet in your hands, put it right up to your nose and smell it. 90 year old paint does not smell, so if you can smell paint, reconsider your purchase if you are looking for a collector grade piece. The paint can be smelled up to a year or two after being repainted. After that, look for other things like lack of wear on the high points etc. There are helmets with mint paint but they are few and far between. Dan Murphy

Mike, 1. If you find a khaki painted helmet that is not colonial, it was most likely painted for use in the post war period. All green paint is post war. 2. I have ever seen only one camo painted French helmet in 35 years of collecting. That one was in a book. 3. Cloth helmet covers were used mainly 1915-1916. It was later found that contaminated dirt in the cloth caused something called gas gangrene when penetrated into the wound. In head wounds this was fatal and the covers were discontinued. Therefore original covers are very rare and when found are either mint or very well worn. 4. Helmets missing the front insignia often have a repro-fake insignia added. The color should match not only the color ,but the wear, on the helmet. The original front badge leaves an outline on the helmet, if it is replaced with a different type of insignia , you can tell. 5. Original liners should be multi piece with a one piece leather sweatband. The tongues will be sewn to this and have grommets for the string. The liner is usually a very thin poor quality leather, so a liner made of high quality cowhide should raise questions. The chinstrap is also usually paper thin with a stamped SQUARE, not rectangular, buckle. 6. The wool backer for the liner can be khaki, dark blue, red, or horizon blue. They were made from old worn and damaged uniforms, that is the reason for the colors. Dark blue and red indicate, most likely, an earlier helmet and are the most desirable. Horizon blue is also good. Khaki, could be post war or made from an old colonial uniform, the problem is how to tell which one. 7. Often the rivets on the comb are of aluminum and usually indicate an early helmet. Later helmets are all steel rivets. 8. The French 1915 Adrian helmet was a pitiful piece of "protective" gear. It was made of mild steel and it's sole value as a helmet was supposedly the fact that it was made from a bunch of pieces rivited together. You should pity the poilus that had to wear it, yet give them credit for the fact that they DID actually wear it. Dan Murphy

Stefan, I see nothing wrong with this cross, but would say it is more like 1815. The early crosses from 1813 (and maybe early 1814) were normally multi piece frames. I have seen anywhere from 8 piece frames to 20+piece frames. Yours is much more consistent with 1814-1815 pieces, after the makers got their act together and is of very nice quality. 1813s are not often seen in that nice of a condition, but they do exist. Dan Murphy

I would say French and/or Belgian. It is hard to tell whether those are French kepis or the Belgian "Yser" uniform hats c. 1915. The two with the khaki visor caps with "wings" are obviously Belgian. The visors came out in 1916, so I would say you have a early 1916 photo. I can hear the German s now "OK, smile like you enjoy being in captivity and are being treated well, OR ELSE!" Dan Murphy

Chip you are right about them being the 1866 pattern Hessian officers field boards. The only thing I can think of, is that this was an officer assigned to the corps headquarters and not to a particular regiment. Post 1871 they would have used the Prussian style roman numeral. Before that.....who knows? Dan Murphy

It may be odd, but then I like odd. Especially when odd looks like this Dan Murphy

Perhaps not, but what happens when those little pink cotton threads get hung up in the bullion threads. Like I said, if it is only tarnish leave it alone. This is natural, 100 year old bullion should NOT be bright and shiny. It should age gracefully and be allowed to do so. If it is dirty or cruddy, clean it very carefully with a soft brush (not a toothbrush) and mild soap and water ONLY(or have it professionally cleaned). Do not try to remove the patina. If it is not broke, DO NOT TRY TO FIX IT! Here is a detail shot from one of my uniforms, there is nothing wrong here, it looks as it should after 90 years.

Mike, Is one side darker than the other or is that just the way the photo was taken? If both sides look like the right sleeve, leave it alone. This tresse naturally tarnishes over a period of time and is best left alone. If it is actually dirt on it, you might be able to clean it using a very soft brush or cloth and some soap and water. Just easy does it, you dont want to damage the metal threads. Taking it to a trusted dry cleaner would also work and would not be abrasive. I have one nearby that for a little extra will personally process it with more care than something just dropped off. Some dry cleaners ship things off to be cleaned elsewhere, try and find one that does it in-house. Dan Murphy

So Ralph, did you get it? It was bought by "Bride of Frankenstein". Is that anyone here? I understand if you are in denial Dan Murphy

Kevin, How did a Bavarian serve with AND against the Austrians in the 1866 war? Dan Murphy

There was a photo of one of these in "The Iron Time". Very nice quality and I have no doubt they had them made in Germany. Must have been a large number of German immigrants in the community, perhaps even a few 1870 vets. And no one has bid? Dan Murphy

Very possible if the core is worn equally (like mine). It also could have sat in a desk drawer face down for the last 80 years and slid back and forth every time it was opened or closed. Talk about stealing joy.

Looks more like "Pau" to me. There is a line leading from the bottom edge of the "P" that goes to the top of the "a". The other line is probably just a scratch of some sort. At the end of the first line is "Lt. u Battfr." means Leutnant und Batteriefuhrer or Battery commander. The bottom line looks like "6 Lodt / L Fuss Art. 10" Perhaps just 6 Batt. / L Fuss Art. (regiment) 10 done badly. What I don't understand is the "L" in front of the unit designation. Fuss or Foot Artillery was heavy artillery so "Leicht" or light it cannot be. I understand there was Landsturm artillery, so perhaps it is Landsturm Fuss Art. (Regt.) 10. Officially the designation would be "Artillerie zu Fuss". Dan Murphy

George, Magnificent Uhlanka!! Any chance you can post a close up of the ribbons? Dan Murphy

Definitely a "1" on the boards, but he is not artillery. The sword he carries is of the style used by the train battalions and other misc. troops. Artillery swords have a "P" shaped guard, not a basket hilt. If he were a veterinarian, he would have snake on the boards not a "1" and would have black collar patches with crimson piping. I believe he is a train officer of the 1st Bavarian Train Batt. The piping on the uniform would be red on collar and cuffs and blue on the front flap and back false pockets. This would fit since the front flap piping (blue)appears very light. His visor cap is probably of the 1916 pattern which was a very dark potash blue for Bavarian train. Earlier feldgrau Bavarian train visors would normally have had a lighter blue. Of interest is the fact he appears to be wearing an issue pattern uniform with the low collar, to which has been added his officer insignia. Issue uniforms were made with a raw edge at the bottom and this invariably curls under after a period of being worn, as shown here. The fact that the 1st Bav. Train Batt. was stationed in Munich does not hurt either. Dan Murphy

Paul, I only added the medal as background and unfortunately it did not photograph well. Yes it is named in capitals "W. EBELING". I did not get it locally, but thought it interesting since there is a branch of the Ebeling family nearby and I know a couple of them. Dan Murphy

Wildcard, Just fabulous pieces Dan Murphy

Raph, I can only say....OMFG Dan Murphy

Very nice bars! I find it interesting that both have Oldenburg and Waldeck. Was there a Waldeck unit with an Oldenburg connection or vice versa? Dan Murphy

Also notice the very crisp and clean RAO ribbon and the very worn KO Ribbon. Dan Murphy

I would say the reason it is cliche is because it IS a cut-out. To make a badge like this hollow with a backer would be extremely difficult and time consuming. The same cuts would have to be made on the back and then silver sheet would be required to cover the openings between the front and back. Or a new die could be made to do this, but dies are expensive and it would not be worth it just to be able to sell a few badges. To make this from a massive constructed badge would be somewhat more simple, but would also be more time consuming due to having to cut through a thicker metal. Time is money, therefore it would be prohibitably expensive to make it any other way. Dan Murphy

Mike, Yes, I have looked it over a couple times. If I hit the mega millions or powerball lottery it is mine, all mine! Both of them. But until then all I can do is look and lust after them. Dan Murphy

Jens, That is an old time 1800's-early 1900's womans curling iron. It was heated and then the woman wrapped her hair around the round part and closes the other side to press the curl in her hair. And with a lot of luck she would then look like the photo of the woman above. Strange cooker, yes. WW1? I don't think so. Dan Murphy

I remember when I started out in Imperial and went to the few Max shows in Baltimore MD (that should date me) I was buying pinback EK1s for $80 and screwbacks were $100, maybe $125 for a really nice one. My Victoria DRGM screwback was only $80 because the threads were worn out. This is when I got the majority of my EK1s and EK2s. I remember seeing a guy with a huge wire ring that must have had 200 EK2s on it. No ribbons, but they were $15 each. Times have changed and we will surely never see that again. Dan Murphy

Or he is just wearing a "Black and white front". Although I am sure many were awarded during the conflict, most documents I have seen are dated 1873 and I understand the majority were awarded then. Dan Murphy